Hello I'm new here and am fitting a T5 to my Australian Mopar
not a slant 6 but a 265 hemi 6. I probably have more in common with you guys than i do with the "stick a 440 and 727 in it" crowd.
Car is 1 of 1300 Valiant charger R/Ts running a Borg Warner Australia close ratio single rail 4 speed. with a slightly offset tunnel centric stick no big exstension needed on the side for 3 rods and levers, its a top shifted single rail box.
if i take anything off it gets stored safely so it can go back to stock. It has value as a stock R/T, much reduced value if custom.
i want a 5 speed but i don't want to cut the torsion bar cross member out.
what i am willing to do is cut a small hole in the tunnel, Australian cars are based on a USA slant 6/auto trans, floor and tunnel, and they never changed that from 62-78 even when putting 727 and 360 in some cars, all they did was slit the tunnel hit it with hammers and weld in a T shaped patch in, for the later cars with v8s and bigger transmissions. so cutting a hole in a factory created mess is the least of my worries, a bit more weld and seem sealer in that area is no biggy
so to do this i have a plan, and i'm hopeing someone might be able to give some views or knows if it will work
Mustang 2002 late model T5 v6 Mustang i.e get all the good metallergy and higher Ft/lb rateing without the cost of Z box ford racing style
it has the reverse/5th gear synchro/brake with tabbed retainer and the small oil funnel/slinger
I took the tail shaft housing off becasue i wanted mechanical speedo
while it was off i fitted Paul Cangiolossi's steel counter shaft bearing support
I purchased a chevy s10 mechanical speedo tailshaft housing, i doesn't fit without work
the S10 housing is none world class, it puts the shifter 8 inches forward of where the mustang one goes
i had the scroll area behind fith gear milled flat like the one in the mustang housing, i painted the lowest contour that wasn't the center bore, red, and said keep going till you start removing the ink.
i then had them mill a rectangular space at the 11 o'clock point to accomodate the tab on the retainer.
I fitted a speedo drive from a guy on ebay who makes a sleeve and split collar set up with a chevy drive gear. looking at it you could make one yourself, but I didn't know that at the time
https://www.ebay.com/itm/221782772686?h ... SwQhRgjwQy
I have a modern driveline adaptor for some other application on the front of the trans, its about 16 mm thick
i had a standard bellhouing machined out in the bore to fit the adapter and i drilled and tapped some holes to hold it on with decent countersunk Unbrako bolts
this puts the end of the input shaft spline level with the friction face of the flywheel
i got a dodge dakota release bearing and carrier which fits the t5
i got a dodge dakoto pilot roller which fits my crank hub
i had a brand new long 94 and 1999-2004 mustang input shrink fitted with a sleeve to take it out at the spigot to .750 and fitted that shimmed to 0 end float
australian 10 inch chevy/holden/exedy v8 clucth with a 10 inch mustang plate
mustang yoke with mustang to small dodge conversion joint
and thats as far as i have got.
anyone else tried it with the s10 housing.... i would not use an s10 t5 but the housing seems like a good thing
stick will be too close to dash but heat and brute force can create a nice swan neck if necessary or somone will have made something.
you know when you think you have it sussed, then you come across a load of info, like the thread above and all the other T5 posts. and doubt creeps in.....Well thats me at the moment. Most here and on other forums seem to concentrate on making a mustang or rear shift chevy work in their Mopar and i haven't...Am i missing something....? spent money on a housing when there is an obvious reason why its a daft idea. I went this route becasue this is what they did on TVRs in the 1990s.
i live in the UK with only 2 T5 applications 80s ford sierra and 90s TVR
I do have a Australian ford housing and an Australian holden housing just incase (BTR made T5 under licenece in Oz)
Aussie Holdens/GM has the stick in the rear position like a chevy camaro without the offset rear mount
Aussie Ford has the stick in a position that is further back than all other housings and the housing is longer. you need an extra long yoke. both could be used if the shifter linkage rod and its integral housing were cut out/down to the output shaft tunnel top, and the linkage kinked down to clear the torsion bar cross member and back up agin by equal ammount i think. its an engineering task i hoped to avoid
do you think it will work? you are the only A body mopar small tunnel sensible 6 cylinder motor, group about.
A bodies/B Bodies only/moparchat are very much "T5s are rubbish, only good for making parts soup, speak to SST or Passon performance"... and thats not the most useful input.
i guess what i'm saying is has anyone done this.....
Dave
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(Fred was my Dad's name and he owned a garage)
