Lately I've been noticing that after starting, the light in the dash takes ~5-10 seconds to go off. Before it would go off within 1-2 seconds. I run 15-W50 mobil 1 synthetic (the red cap bottles), the taller wix filter (51773) and a standard stock replacment pump.

The slant barely has a few thousand miles on it after its rebuild. I was thinking that maybe 15w50 isn't appropriate for the summer months, but I thought oil was supposed to get runnier when warm? You would think that thinner oil will get sucked up easier by the pump on startup and cause the light to go off sooner. I've been running that mobil 1 oil for several months now but have only noticed this issue a few days ago.

Does the replacement pump have the standpipe and check valve where the filter spins on?

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

No standpipe in the pump, not sure about a check valve. The oil filter does have a anti drainback valve, that I did verify working, when installing the filter.

Maybe the valve in the filter doesn't work so well any more.

Find a stock pump with the standpipe (the check valve is within) and swap it onto your pump and I bet your problems go away or at least get better. Change the filter might be a good idea, too, although WIX has one of the best anti-drainback valves I've seen. That valve helps keep the oil in the filter from draining back through the pump and pickup back into the pan. The standpipe and valve that screws into the filter base that you don't have keeps the oil from draining out of the filter thru the mains and various oil passages.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

The correct filters are *supposed* to have the anti-drainback valve in them.
Several years ago one of my slants had a slight knock on startup that it never had before. I removed the filter and could see through the holes that the rubber anti-drainback vale thingy was all buckled up. I removed the standpipe to inspect it's check valve and found the spring was no longer pushing the poppet closed tight, but left it hang open a tiny bit.

I installed a different filter, and replace or repaired the check valve in the stand pipe and no more knock on startup. One of the stand pipes I had, I was able to work the spring out of it without spoiling it, then stretched it slightly, and worked it back in. Then it held the poppet tight again.

So there ya go.

This is very typical of a cheapo filter like a Fram or a no-name brand. I have seen the exact same thing happen on several occasions. It may be no big deal on most motors, but on a slant six with an inverted filter, it is important.

Your better filters that I have seen are WIX, A/C (yuck, I know), Motorcraft (double yuck, but a good filter), Mopar, Car Quest (made by WIX), and NAPA (made by WIX). There are probably some more good ones, but these are the ones that come to mind. Best thing to do is cut them up and see for yourself how they are made.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

I guess I can change the WIX filter again. I always hated doing that because of how its inverted in our beloved slants. I installed the wix filter when I moved to the mobil 1 oil, so if the anti drainback valve in the filter is broken then it indeed is premature.

Can you install a standpipe and the valve within it as mentioned without removing the pump? I mean, is it threaded on or is it integral to the pump and non removable?

Either way, what applicaiton slant do I ask for to get the pump with standpipe?

Yes, very easily. Just get a big socket and take off the piece that the filter screws onto. All the replacement pumps I've seen come without the standpipe, it's up to you and me to remove it from the old pump and swap it over. As far as where to get another one, I have gotten them from dealerships before, but it's been a long time, and I bet its NS1 now. So try there, and if that does no good, start taking filters off slant sixes at junkyards until you find one, unless someone else knows a source... Anybody?

By the way, I too hate the inverted filter. That's why on my Duster I got a relocation kit and turned it right-side-up on the passenger fenderwell. I also installed an industrial high-capacity check valve since it is still higher than pump level and you cant fit the stock check-valve under the adapter.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

I need a standpipe too. Does anyone have an extra they want to sell?

Mitch Blackman

/6.org

SL6 forums to the rescue AGAIN! I have been having this exact same problem. The oil light comes on when cold for some 5-15 seconds , during which time there is quite a racket coming from the bottom end. As soon as the light goes out, the clatter goes away. If you run it a while, then come to a light where the idle speed gets low (904), then the oil light returns, either flickering or on solid... and the rattle returns .

I guess I'm on the same boat, so if FRAM is crap, WIX is good, who else is bad/good? Additionally, what oil type can I run to increase oiling @ lower RPM/@ startup.

Lastly, Lucas Oil Stabilizer, I have a bottle, but won't put it in until next oil change... any value for startup wear?

PS: I saw one someplace else recently, but I can't remember where... when I find the site again I will post here of course!

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

If this is happening to you, your problem is more serious than the filter draining back when the engine is shut off. Sounds like you have excessive clearance at various engine bearings, etc. The only real fix for this is to tear the motor down and machine the crank, etc., and install bearings for undersize crank journals.

A band-aid fix would be to install a high-volume oil pump (which is almost a more aggravating job than just pulling and freshening the motor)... Or you can just run thick oil and drive the &!$$ out of it till it craps out for good (just unplug the oil pressure sender if the light annoys you! ), but then you'll have more serious problems when the final expiration date is reached unless you have a good core slant six lying around...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

I have a running / + 904 (paid $20 for both) removed from a valiant that is sitting just beside my shed. Ran good when it was removed from the car. The only problem with it is a warped & Cracked exaust man. The previous owner snapped off a bolt in the head, and never bothered to drill it out, so that valve may be nasty(He "claims" that he barely drove it after the bolt snapped, but I have my doubts... I DID see/hear the car... I have a good head, and manifolds so if it comes right down to it...

I have heard the difficulty in installing a new pump... I just have no place to work to rebuild an engine... I am trying to figure out a way to prevent the bottom end from going away a couple more years.

I had considered (and previously posted about) a prelubercator for the engine... but good ones are like $275. At this point i'd give almost anything for a quiet garage and a few tools.

Anybody got possible suggestions? Other ideas on what might be able to give me a few k more miles?

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

Like I said, just run some thick oil and drive it. I drove a worn out 318 polyspherical in that state for several years... just couldn't kill it.

Why waste a bunch of money on a band-aid like some kind of prelubricator? That's not going to help your idle situation anyway. Fix it or drive it.

I've lived in apartments and rebuilt engines right on the ground on a piece of plywood. If you've got a spare parking space, you can do it. You could even try a sleazy repair and drop the pan and just put in some new bearings with the motor still in the car. Main bearings can be replaced with the crank still installed by using a properly bent cotter pin...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Thanks for all the suggestions,

I love my /, and I have the know-how to rebuild an engine. The problem(s) are that I have very limited space (3 car family, mobile park). Secondly (and I fear more serious) is the fact that the mobile company that owns the park actively pays a patrol to look for anyone working on a car. If they find a HOOD UP! they warn you. If I got caught with an engine (the one I have is under a tarp with a cable lock securing the tarp)*distant sound of goose stepping* out of the car, or was actively working on it, I'd likely get evicted.

My nearest relative(s) live 300 miles from here.
My few friends all live in apartments, or in this accursed park.

Nobody will rent me garage space at a reasonable price... and most want to do a credit check (AT MY EXPENSE!) before renting me a garage for $75/mo!!!

Sadly, I may have to drive it until it dies...

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

Sounds like time to move. I mean, I can understand their not wanting it to be your typical "Alabama-style" trailer park with a Grenada permanently up on blocks and a broke down El Camino full of trash at every lot, but how the hell else are you supposed to fix your car if you cant open the hood? Seems like if they want to employ such restrictive regulations, they could give the residents a common space to do car service. I'd get the hell out of there if I were you.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!