Looking forward to an update! You're very talented & creative, and You've built a unique & beautiful ride, Thx for sharing the journey! K6

Long time since last post! I have started the EFI-conversion recently. This is all new to me, although I do know the basics.
I removed ALL the original wiring harness from the car. It's intact but being over 60 years old, it's probably better be safe than sorry.
Also going to add a decent fuse box and some relays, as there is none in the original system.
This way I can make a custom EFI integrated harness and make it at least look simpler.


Here is the MaxxECU Street Premium package. It came with wiring harness for all the sensors and injectors. Also included was a wideband sensor.
ECU has a built in MAP sensor up to 3 bar / 43,5 PSI of boost.


This is all the wiring needed from the factory. Car had probably zero options, so not too much wiring here


I converted the distributor to give home signal for the ECU.
Removed all the weights and welded a DIY trigger wheel to the shaft. Cut the cap in half and epoxied some pc-sheet for cover.
Later I was informed that it would have worked with single tooth trigger also.
Going with HALL-sensors, home and trigger.


I'm not sure what I'm going to achieve with this, probably some weird looking setup.
I butchered the DCOE, plugged all the unneeded holes and added a TPS-sensor.
This should, in theory work as a throttle body now.


Injectors are 304cc @ 3 bar, Bosch type short models. There is not much room for the injectors,
because the way I have put the supercharger.
Some weld on bungs and 36-1 trigger wheel came recently.


Mocking up the bungs with DIY fuel rail and some 14mm pipe turned as injector templates.


This is where I'm now with the project. Injector bungs are welded on in 45 deg. angle and some cleaning and painting to do

Next I'm going to tackle the trigger wheel and bracket for the trigger sensor.

Thanks for your comments!

Very cool progress! I bet, after quite a bit of creative work, you will enjoy driving the car much more.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Very impressive work! Thanks for updating us.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Long time since last post, so I try to fast forward here with a slant six horror picture show.


Injector bungs welded and sanded down. Painted with Chrysler Turquoise.


Hall sensor bracket here. Someone said that it needs to be stury enough for lift the engine


Manifold installed with injectors and fuel rail


IAT sensor tapped to blower adapter


CLT sensor installed to head. Not sure if this is the best location for it


A bunch of colorful spaghetti


Colorful spaghetti rear chassis harness


Colorful spaghetti front chassis harness


Colorf... You get the idea... Dash harness

All electrics are now fuse protected.


Idle air bypass connection


Relocated the hidden extra gauges and installed the ECU behind the radio hole.


LS2 Truck coils fitted here. All coils can removed with as a unit by removing two screws


Engine harness coming together here.


Fuel regulator and some PTFE fuel lines with AN fittings


Walbro pump installed inside the tank.


Fitted electric fan behind the radiator


Some silly pic with harness installed

After everything was mocked up I tried to start the car, but had no spark.
I found out that there was a minor error with the harness and coils had no ground.
After fixing that, it started right away. First runs were just a few seconds, but after tweeking around the tune I got it running decently.


Current status seen here in couple of videos, if you are interested...

Running engine. IAC seen here is a BMW M50/52 style.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFSK9vahQCQ

Testing gears and did my first ever fuel mapping.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHAlcaLcMhw

Stop and start testing. Could fire up faster with more modern starter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ycfUkY0O1w

This is my first ever EFI build and after a long time the first start reminded me about the reasons why we wrench cars.

Now I have a bunch of things to do around the car before first roadtests,
besides it still snowing here in Finland..

Nice, tuning a FI motor can be very satisfying.
What are you using for a throttle body?

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Very nice work, Markus! Thanks for sharing with us. Best of luck tuning. It should be FAR FAR easier than with a carb.

I just did similar things to my 3X2 DCOE setup for individual runner TBs. That engine will be NA. Well, I admit I had someone do most of the mods...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

And the TB does look like a carb body, that is why I was asking.
Is it starting OK without the enrichment port that is normally on a TB?

And as said by many others, outstanding achievement on your project.
Thanks for posting.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Amazing.
Was there any specific way the 36-1 trigger wheel had to be lined up with the harmonic balancer ?
That is , which tooth had to be lined up with the timing mark on the balancer ?
If you know what i mean .
Do you have a photo of how you mounted the trigger wheel to the balancer SC pulley ?
Cheers,
Greg

_________________

DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Here is my trigger wheel for similar Maxxecu.



It is designed and cut especially for slantsix. It has 6 bolt holes. Three for fixing the trigger wheel on the damper. Three more that the damper can removed without removing trigger wheel or timing wheel which is also permanently installed there.

The (removable center part idea came from 45 rpm record. I used that center hole to test the wheel and sensor in pair before welding the mount for the sensor.

The missin teeth (or 2 in my application) are before cylinder 1 TDC as it was recommended in the Maxxecu instructions. The advance can be read from degree wheel and then set to Maxxecu. Finally when engine is running a fine tune is possible (and recommended) to get exact crankshaft position info to the ecu. In my application the sensor is mounted to timing cover.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

Igu32
Thanks for that , that is some fine work there .
Has given me a few ideas .
There is a lot of intelligent people on this site .
Cheers,
Greg

_________________

DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I made a trigger wheel out of an old pulley.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Procycle, would you be interested / available to make any more of those?


Pretty Sure I can Find / Dig out a pulley for you to modify for me, I could ship it to ya.
Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I'd be happy to. I will PM my mailing address.

There are a couple of pitfalls in using a pulley for this. There's enough slop in the bolt holes that it's a bit fiddly getting it bolted up concentric on the crank. The pulley I used wasn't all that accurately manufactured. The center hole wasn't concentric with the edge. For a belt it doesn't matter that much but for consistent gap to the hall effect sensor it does. It would be nice If I had pinned the pulley so it can only go on one way.

Also, if I make one for you I'd suggest that I don't machine the gap. Instead, you grind one tooth out after you have your pickup in place and the gap offset figured out. I had mine wrong when I took that last photo. The engine is at TDC and the first tooth is lined up with the sensor. That's wrong. I had to move the trigger wheel so the first tooth lined up with the sensor at about 40 degrees before TDC.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--