Hello, I tried to use the search function for this, but it Will not search for Just "ARP" or if I search for "ARP Rod" it does not work, if I search for "ARP Rod Bolt" it's like I am just searching for only "Bolt"

Anyway, what is the best practice for clearancing the ARP rod bolts in stock rods?

The Rod bolt heads buttons are too big, and they do not fit...so..
Do I grind on the bolt head a bit or on the Rod? My guess would be on the bolt head but I wanted to check here.


and yes of course...I will get the rods resized / reconditioned before the install into the engine.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, the ones I have here measure larger than DC performance rod bolts.
I don't remember the number.
I am going to let my machine shop do all the fitting.
That is what I feel comfortable doing.

_________________
Hyper_pak

Thanks Stan,

That does not really answer my question however.
I know folks here have used the arp bolts in a stock con rod.

I can do this myself with a belt sander or die grinder.. Just trying to find out what others have done on their fitting of the rod Bolts to the stock Rods.

Cheers!

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

well it does kind of.
i would let a pro cut and fit it
unless there are different numbers for the arp parts, the fit is not right

_________________
Hyper_pak

There's someone on here who can tell you what happens when you just grind them and knock them in........

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I thought the issue was not having the Rods Resized on the ID of the Big end after installing these bolts? Maybe I am incorrect here.
Stan, are you thinking that you are going to leave the bolts alone and then have the rods machined to clear the bolt heads?

I was going to have the rods resized for the bearing shells after putting the bolts in. but maybe there is more of an issue here.

I was just trying to do as much of the prep work myself for this job.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I believe that is what I would do. And I'm pretty sure that is what people recommended to me on here.

I probably would be the one Dennis was talking about. Funny thing is I put a set in Ryan's Dart and never resized them. It ran for many years without issue.Then on my first big bore I pressed them in (they were tight also) and it spun a bearing and broke a rod....etc.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks Rick.

Do you mean you did some grinding on the bolt head or on the Rod? which one?

It's a bit mysterious as to what you meant, at least for me.

Maybe you did not have all of your first cup of coffee...? I know you like your coffee.
I will buy you a cup and also a peach milkshake next time we hang out!..... Don't let me forget.

Thank you,

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

On mine I did not do any clearancing. But after the failure of my engine, I was planning to clearance the bolts on any future builds. Can't remember who said to do the bolts? But that seems like a better option to me than touching the rods.

Yes to the coffee!!!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yes that's what I was thinking too!.. Remind me about the Coffee. Do not let me forget or pretend to forget!

Some investigation:

Stock Rod Bolt & Nut ~ 40g


ARP "Slant 6" Rod Bolt and Nut ~ 42g


Stock Shoulder Ø: 0.388"


Stock Bolt Upper Shoulder Ø just below the bolt head... swells to 0.3925"


ARP Bolt Shoulder Ø: 0.390"


ARP Bolt Upper Shoulder Ø just below the bolt head... swells to 0.3975"


no wonder we have to resize the big end.. those bolt shoulders are tight.... another option for the home machinist.. oversized ream the bolt holes?

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yes, just grind around the bolt head where it drops into the recess in the rod. These ARP bolts for the Slant are actually for a GM engine, and just substituted because the dimensions for length, etc...matches the Slant closely. The exception being the bolt head that may need minor massaging to fit.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Meh, just hand them to the machine shop. You're not saving anything doing it yourself anyway.

I know, the enjoyment of doing it yourself......

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Just saw this on Facebook:

Below is an email response from ARP concerning their rod bolts. Just wanted to share so people are aware that that ordering rod bolts is a waste of time.

“unfortunately we have part 142-6001 on hold. R&D is retesting this kit. , im thinking it could be a fitment issue. There is no ETA when this kit will be back in stock.

if you can provide dimensions of the old rod bolt you have, maybe i can see if another rod bolt will work , i attached a pdf , just fill in the blanks and email back to me please.”

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Very interesting. Yuck. Thanks for bringing this up, Greg, and thanks everyone for your input.

I bought a few sets of these thinking they had solved the problem years ago. I wonder if they will exchange them for those who have bought new sets... I am thinking I have used one set, but for the cast rods, so a different PN.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Maybe they will replace my engine that grenaded!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6