Im getting a remote filter mount kit (Thanks for the info D/W), and I am building a pressure controlled pre-lubercator from parts around my house. All I need to order is a pressure controlled switch and relay, which I can prolly get from a hydraulics supply place here local. It's not exactly an engine rebuild, but it seems to have worked quite well for others I know. I figure it'll cost me about $75 all said and done.

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When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

Dennis,

I was just staring at the pipe, poking a screw driver into the thing, and I noticed I could get the little plate to flip on its side. Eventually after spending some time with it, I got the plate and spring to switch places! I was surprised.... but it worked. Used a small screwdriver and toothpick to, ahem, manipulate the plate/spring and its back to normal.

Installed the pipe, ran the engine... let it sit overnight, and today I had oil pressure just after I let go of the key. Success.

I'm thinkin though... now next time I will be changing oil filters, I'm gonna have a whole (taller) filter full of oil! Ack.

Heres a tip for anyone reading.... if your oil filter is in the stock place on the pump, you can get a plastic 1 gallon yogurt container, cut an inch or so off the top, and it fits perfectly under the filter so if any oil drips down you won't soak the front end/driveway, it'll land right into the container.

Glad it worked out for you, sorry you had so much trouble. I bet you're one of those guys who builds ships in bottles! Good eye for spotting and questioning the way it was assembled. You'd probably have never gotten oil pressure if you had put it in the way you got it.

Now does anybody know why Federal Mogul replacement rod bearings for a big-block have no side oil hole in either half? I puzzled over this for awhile, several different batches, too. I broke out the dremel and made my own, but why no hole? Anyone know? It's been quite a while since I've monkeyed with a "B" engine...

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

This came up on the 62-65 Mopar List and the reply from Clevite was "that they were not needed". Most comments on this was they'd rather have the holes.

About the bearings,

so then how is proper lubercation assured? I would think you'd want to have holes or channels or something?! Has anyone used the hole-less ones and had GOOD/BAD Luck with em?

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

I was under the impression the notch in the bearing is for the spit hole. And the spit hole is for lubing the cam and the cylinder bores. They should face the inside of a V8.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

That's right... and if the bearing shell has no notch at the parting line [the two halves together make a "hole" (no pun intended )], no oil gets out of this hole. Go figure.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!