I have a 225 slant six in my hot rod roadster. It's a 72 stock except for a super six intake and Stromberg ww3 carb. The ballast resistor the previous owner had in the car broke, it was a curved ceramic one not sure what application. I purchased one for a 72 slant six dart with the 2 hookups. One wire comes from my ignition and the other goes to the coil. I am using a GM one wire alt so it has an internal voltage regulator. I have a stumble or misfire around 1500 rpm when I rev it there in park. Points dwell is 43 and timing is set at 6 btdc. This is as far as I can adjust the timing using both adjustment bolts. When I measure across the ballast resistor with nothing hooked up I'm getting 1.7 ohms. With the ignition on I'm getting 12 volts in and 6.8 volts out. Running I'm getting 14.6 volts in and 10.6 volts to the coil.

Are these voltage numbers in line with what would be expected? If so what else could be causing this stumble? Air mixture screws are set and I'm getting 18 hg at 750 rpm. I recently set the valve lash while.tunning and made sure not to mix up the exhaust and intake. Plugs are the recommended ngks and are gapped correctly. They are all uniform light brown in color. I run 89 non ethanol fuel. I also checked for vacuum leaks around the carb and intake runners. I used Remflex.gaskets

Vacuum advance hooked up? What is your total mechanical advance? 6 BTDC seems a little slow, I'd move the distributor a tooth and start the adjustment process again.

Is the coil supposed to be used with a resistor?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Yup the vac advanced is hooked up to ported vacuum. And the advancer does work when I put vacuum on the hose. Not sure how much mechanical advance I'm getting since I don't have a dial back timing light. I guess I could put some timing tape on the balance to see. I might be able to check that this evening. I did check the timing mark on the balancer with a piston stop as well.

I saw people suggesting 10 btdc but I couldn't get there. I will try moving it a tooth this evening. I need to go a tooth back so turn the rotor counterclockwise right?

It looks like a stock coil to me. I thought all points ignitions used a resistor to prolong the life of the points.

I moved the distributor 1 tooth and set the initial timing at 10 btdc. I also tried a little more but no change the miss is still there.

Didn't find my timing tapes so I wasn't able to check total mechanical timing.

I might suggest getting rid of all of that stuff and either going with the HEI Ignition as listed here on the forum or of you want to keep the points distributor getting a pertronix setup to replace the points / coil and eliminate the ballast resistor in the process.

If that misfire is still there after swapping to a different system then it is something else mechanical related.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Though I have yet to convert one to hei, (I have a 318 lean burn car in mind as a guinea pig when I delete the LB)
But I have had good luck with the regular 4 pin Mopar electronic ignition system and have converted several to that over the years. "Don't fix what ain't broke" it works for me. Your luck might vary

i've thought about the hei conversion but haven't wanted to track down the distributor. While drag racing this weekend the car was stalling when launching. It's a 904 and I was letting the revs get up to 1000 while holding the brake. When I left the choke pulled out a little it helped prevent the stalling. Maybe i need to go up a jet size?

What carb do you have?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

1000 is not that much above idle. What happens at 1500 or 2000? It may be the accelerator pump shot is not large enough or is too large for the rpm you are starting at.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Do you have an AFR Gauge installed in the exhaust?

That can help provide you with some more informed data points that can drive your decision-making process here.

You might be onto something with the choke observation.
As others have asked, what carbby is slapped on top of that Hot Rod?



Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

First sentence in the first post:
I have a 225 slant six in my hot rod roadster. It's a 72 stock except for a super six intake and Stromberg ww3 carb.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks,

I cannot offer anything about the tunability of a stromberg ww3.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Stromberg WW3

Before when i drag raced in April the brakes were working better and I may have been launching at a higher rpm but didn't have a tach then. I'm fighting some brake problems so I was afraid to get the rpms higher and red light. I need to just rip out all the lines and replace them so i can stop the leaks and move the brake light switch to an easier area to tighten the lines.