10/21/23:

Getting started on some winter projects.

I am beginning the Disc Brake install which will also coincide with an engine rebuild as well as a good engine bay / K frame detailing and possible transmission swap.
It's easy for these things to snowball quickly so, who knows what else will come along while I have all of these big parts out. I will probably drop the engine/transmission and k Frame out of the bottom whilst it is on the lift.

Getting Started:


Bye bye marginally good rolling paperweights:

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This


used to be in there.



Now it's not!

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10-29-23:

I was able to get the k frame separated from the engine and also the steering box off the K frame.


Got some degreasing and cleaning of the k frame done..


And the steering box got cleaned too.

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11-3-23:

Got the Trans, Bell, flywheel and PS Pump pulled off of the Enging block.

Started detailing some small parts too:


Hope to have a block broken down and degreased / off to the machine shop by Monday.
I got new pistons and rings for it. Will be bored 0.060" over.

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11/6/23:

I got the engine all broken down and torn apart. It was super sludgy inside and out.
I will be cleaning, blasting, and respraying the tins, and rebuilding things like the power steering pump.

We got the Block degreased and ready for the machine shop.
I was able to get the crank and block to the machine shop before work this morning and I should have it back for reassembly before Christmas!

There were no broken rings or piston lands or anything weird, just lots of glazing on the cylinder walls and spots where the engine had sat in one place without running for probably a few decades. I am going to have it bored 0.060" over and I will put new rings and pistons in it along with a different camshaft, a new timing set, a different head, and cam, main, and rod bearings.

The oil pump should be fine but I will check it all over to be sure. I will redo the poorly executed exhaust from the prior owner.

Some pictures:
Block parts disassembled:


Very Sludgy, dino turds from past decades, no amount of oil changes or cleaning strategies seemed to make the oil any better or not black instantly after changing it.



The helper was at the shop. She helped degrease the block before it went to the machine shop.
The kickback on the pressure washer was something for her to get used to.


The cylinders were super smooth - no evidence of a cross-hatch pattern anywhere except below the ring packs. Makes me think It sat a long time, the cylinders were rusted up and then the engine was started and the rings worked the cylinder crap into the walls knocking the hatching back to glass smooth.


The Head Rail Pad near the alternator may be missing a "5" after the 22? It is a 225 engine for sure., not a 170. Seems like someone took a smoke break a bit early on the line one day.


More cleaning 60-year-old gunk in the small parts washer tonight and all week at home.

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I have seen many slants marked like that. Not uncommon

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Only the first two digits of the engine displacement were stamped on the US-built engines through '64 (V-series). Starting in '65 (A-series), the whole displacement was stamped.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thank you, Dan and Charrlie! That makes sense. I never knew that, as I never had pulled an original pre-65 block out of a vehicle or inspected the numbers on one.

I take back my snarky factory break comment then.

Greg

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11/7/23:

Starting to get some of the tins cleaned, there was about 3/8" of sludge and lead buildup in the bottom of the oil pan, It was very nasty.

Here are some of the degreased parts ready for blasting and painting:

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11/19/23:

Making some progress - Most of the engine parts are now desludged, there are still a few more bits to go, but mostly all clean.

The oil pan had a big whack pushed into it. my guess it the jack slipped off of the K frame at some point in the last 62 years.


A little hammer and dolly work has it back to flat again.


good as 62 years old and not smashed.


Some more parts sprayed after they were abrasive blasted:


Cleaning the rocker shaft and rockers, as well as rebuilding the PS Pump.
I was fortunate as the Rockers were not real sludgy, just on the outside surface which cleaned up nicely in the parts washer with the mineral spirits and a good metal wired welding brush.

All Clean!


I made a little blasting/painting fixture for all of the little bolts that hold the tins on the engine. It seems to have worked well.


More parts fresh out of the blaster cabinet:

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Any particular reason to go straight to 60-over? I've never had any engine I have ever worked on taken that far oversized. Is it already bored over?

Better room for oversized valve to work right. More cubes = more power= bigger wheel stands!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yes, Rick Has got it figured out,

I will be putting a head with good valves on it and retiring the stock head to be reused as a core for valve work. I had the 0.060" pistons in stock on the shelf too.

I mean if it's going to the machine shop anyway for boring, why not just skip the 0.030"? It costs the same and I do not expect to have to bore the block again in my lifetime, who knows if there will even be parts available when I am real old, except for what I have on the shelf.

I might just have to buy all of Charrlie's stock someday!

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Come and get it.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I would love to, but work, family, and other things in the way of an epic slant parts grab right now.

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