12/24/23:

I finally got the Federal/TRW/Chrysler Power steering pump buttoned up.

I made a critical error on disassembly with not marking/punching the front bearing support and lock ring as described in the FSM. Fortunately I was able to rectify my ridiculous error by using the pump' inside witness marks behind the front bearing as a reference and was able to re assemble the slipper/pump rotor assembly with no binding.

It is ready to go back into service now!



Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I'm really liking this slide show.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah, Greg is awesome. I'm as lame as it gets...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

12/27/23:

Thank you Dan and Lou.

Lou, I am not sure what you mean about lame?

I got the Frame hitch mocked up, drilled and mounted, then removed for a few coats of paint.

Holed marked and Drilled:


Hardware to be used; 1/2" carriage bolts, trailer hitch block plates (for inside the frame rails), and some 1/2-13 fishwire.


One more coat of paint today, then it will be ready for the final install.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I think that means genius!

Your hitch looks great Greg.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

So is the plate leaning against the cranks available on a lend/lease program or are you just showing how much you decked the block?

Hi Kevin,

That is a honing plate that I made a few years ago from a junk block. I did not deck this block hardly at all - just a clean up pass but it must have needed more than a few thousandths as the stamped ID numbers were mostly gone when I picked the block up after machining.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

12/28/23:

I went to accomplish some work on the valiant wagon yesterday, and I was able to get a lot of small jobs done.

I got the painted receiver hitch fully installed:


I wanted to begin building some of the exhaust as i removed the exhaust system from the Muffler shop and previous owners.
I am going to make my exhaust out of all 304 stainless with fully back purged welds. i started to lay out the parts and fired up the TIG machine, but realized that there was no 180° bends in 2 1/2" Ø tubing in my stash of exhaust building materials, so off to the parts catalog to order the required materials.

I refurbished the OE Tailpipe hanger - yes it was the original one from the factory in 1962, It was still covered with the original rustproofing / sound deadening material from the factory. - the rubber hanger / tire material was starting to give way so I figured I would save and restore it. - New Rubber and A bolt replace the factory rivet. I blasted and then painted what seemed like bare metal from the factory.

Factory rubber was needing replaced:


Rejuvenated factory tailpipe hanger:


Tailpipe hanger reinstalled:


I began working on the block..
I had a feeling that I would need the original Cam plug for the back of the block, so I saved it. I had this happen to me before when I was working on a '64 Truck block a while ago - some of the early blocks are machined for a larger rear cam plug - meaning the 2 9/64" Ø - Dorman 555-065 Plugs do not fit. - Too Small. My guess is the early cast iron blocks (this is a '62 Block) and the AL blocks use this larger plug?





I also gave the block a good bath and Began installing the camshaft bearings.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

What's that mean?
How'd you do that?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan, to answer your questions:

Back purging or back gassing as it is sometimes referred to is the process used on stainless ( and probably other more exotic alloys too) where when welding on tubing, the front of the weld puddle is flooded in argon to shield it from atmospheric contamination, (normal AR gas flow from the TIG torch) however the back of the weld (inside the tube) will still have atmospheric contamination from the air inside the tube. This leads to a precipitation and hard sugar forming on the backside of the weld (in side the tube) making for ugly and brittle stuff on the innards of the tubing. Back purging prevents all of that from happening - better weld quality and more pretty/smoother inside the tube after the weld process is complete.

I am not sure if this is a consideration or necessary on AL, it is not needed on mild steel or aluminized steel exhaust tubing, especially if using the Mig welding process.

Here is a good snippet on the subject from some of the be$t in the Stainless Exhaust Business.

Also a comparison:


Second question:

I mistyped, I typed revised, I should have typed restored or rejuvenated.

Anyway, I had some other muffler hanger stuff in my magic bin of exhaust parts.. and I repurposed a bit of rubber hanger strap.

It already had the holes in it, I just kept all the OE metal. I had to drill out the original rivet, as I had no large rivets to replace it with, and no tooling to set such a large rivet, so I used a bolt in place of the original rivet.

Once unriveted, I cleaned the metal bits in the abrasive blast cabinet, then painted them.
After that, I cut the long rubber strap to the original length of about 3".

There were appropriately spaced holes pre-manufactured in the rubber strap that I reused.

Thanks, Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

B'dannnng, that backpurged weld is pretty! One of those things that might not make a measurable difference, but gives one a warmfuzzy knowing it's there. I get it.

And I'm adding exhaust hangers to the list of stuff weird old-car people refurbish, that most car owners never think about (or just throw away). Nice work!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well thanks Dan, It's good to know someone else out there appreciates my mania.

If those OE Hanger hardware bits were really rusty rotted and crusty, then I probably would have thrown them in the bin, but they were just about as perfect as 62 year old exhaust parts get!, so I saved them.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

12/31/23:

I got some more things accomplished, I got the pistons/ pins and rods all mated up.
I made a fixture to locate the pin in the rod, it was a bit fussy at first and I need to redo a few of them, but I got some of them correct the first time, and i will tweak the others as needed before installation in the block.


I finished mocking up and welding the tail pipe. It's all in stainless so It will never need attention again in my lifetime. (I have had some cheap aluminized tubes rust from the inside out on one of my other cars that never was driven on the rain or snow/salt, so i build all of my exhausts in stainless now.)

Mockup / tackup - then test fit on the car.


Fully welded:


Frosty - not from Wendy's


Not all of them turn out like this, but when the gaps are right some nice beads can happen. Can always be better, but not bad for picking up the TIG Torch maybe once every 3 years.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That looks really good Greg!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ohhhhhhh, the wonderful thing about TIGgers,
is TIGgers are wonderful things!
Their tops are made out of rubber;
Their bottoms are made out of springs!
They're bouncy-pouncy-flouncey-jouncey; fun-fun-fun-fun-FUNNNNN!
But the most wonderful thing about TIGgers is…uh
…I wouldn't know; that's not in my skillset.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.