Dan if you were singing that tune, I'd probably keep my day job!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

1/2/24:

Thank you Rick, It's not professional grade work, but it'll do for what I need.
Dan - you can sing anything you like for me - no problem.

I finished up the tailpipe, it may still need some little adjustments, but it is all done, the muffler is sorted and placed, and I began working on the intermediate pipe today.

The intermediate pipe is finished up to the merge collector and, I would say there is not much more to do on the exhaust for now until the engine and transmission is back in the car.

Tailpipe and muffler deciding which route the intermediate pipe should take.


15° bends and 15° mitre cuts are your friends!


Some of those welds turn out nooice when the gaps are right.


That's all on the exhaust for now. Everything is fully welded in the pictures above. It will be time for me to build the head pipes from the headers to the merge collectors when the engine is back in the car.

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Looks great Greg!... That must have been EXHAUSTing work.

Thanks, Andrew,
It wasn't all that bad, sometimes I do get interrupted by the phone going off. .

You know I think ↓this↓ was even more exhausting!

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A Tuba tailpipe! Only in Texas, or maybe West Virginia!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Hey at least it's on a '66 Dart.

It might have also looked apropos on a certain white Dodge D150 - I think it was nicknamed the one stack mack!

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Beautiful work, but where's the tailspout pointing? Looks like a rear-dump system. On a wagon you want a side-dump tailspout, because the body shape of the wagon tends to create a big low-pressure area behind it on the road, dragging a cloud of exhaust along with the car big enough to make life unpleasant inside the car—especially at moderate speeds with the (side) window/s down. That's why the factory put side-dump tailpipes on every A-body wagon they ever built, like most other makers of most other generally-similarly-shaped wagons. Straight out sideways or (better) downward as much as 45°, but…sideways.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan, I don't have the tail spout on yet, that is always the last thing I futz with because every other connection and clamp from the manifold to the tail pipe affects where the spout appears under the car. I always like a tail spout pointing 90⁰ down on my cars.the only ones that don't have it are the '69 dart, (GTS style exhaust tips) and the bumper is aways dirty.. and the truck & van. 90⁰ elbows to the side.

Thanks for the tip on the turnout. I will probably modify the end of the tailpipe/tail spout as needed, and that is an easy job to do.


My 79 wagon has the tail spout where the sedan or coupe would and it is not an issue, but the A body or early 60 s wagons might be a different story. It's also possible my '79 wagon does not have an oe tailpipe.

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I wondered if you were going to raise the F-body wagons! The forward-slanted tailgate greatly reduces the effect described, versus the boxier A-body (etc) wagons.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Greg, this is how we ran my Lancer tail pipe.

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Hyper_pak

Thanks, Stan, That is looking good.

Greg

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Might wanna rethink that a little. A down-discharge exhaust (90°, straight down) makes it easy for exhaust to pool under/around the car when it's standing still and there's even the lightest breeze in the wrong direction. If you have at least some horizontal aspect to the discharge angle, you're actively blowing the exhaust away from the car, so at least it's not as concentrated if it does pool. You can have your cake and eat it too: 45° down, then a horizontal slash cut starting at the outermost/uppermost point of the end of the spout, then a vertical cut chopping off about 3/4" of the outermost/uppermost part of the end of the spout. Very tidy and functional. Crude side view:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am not sure if I understand all of that from the crude side view, but definitely, some considerations are to be made, thank you.

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1/8/23:

I made a fixture to mount the Kent Moore universal piston pin / connecting rod holding tool. Buying the complete set new/ used can cost anywhere from $600-$2000, and I found a bunch of used partial sets of the tool. I can use my press and a socket to do most of the work that the Kent Moore tool sets provide. The Kent Moore Set is way nicer and less fussy, but what I made has worked so far for ~$200. It's not as fancy as the entire K-M tool, but it did work after I placed a few pins in the wrong spot with the rod heater method.

Now I am ready to begin assembly on the engine. I still need to pick a head and Cam, but everything else is sorted out.

Block Prep and wash complete - Cam bearings and plugs are completely installed as well as oil gallery plugs.



Block painting is mostly done too.

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Good , I thought it was just me.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6