So I started a new thread to give an account on basic engine assembly. Bought the doctors book finally. Should have started there. A lot of engine prep before machine work I should have done.

I still haven't painted the block yet. Going to search for recent painting experience. Seems like people have had less than great results recently with some brands. Quality seems to be a problem recently with a lot of things.

Reading the slant six book, camshaft installation is first. I had thought this would be good to check the gears and have room to guide it in place. I'm still waiting on the cam so I'm going to pull the crank when the cam gets here. I had set the crank in just so it wasn't standing there wanting to get knocked over.

I really want this to be a motor that lasts. Retirement is less than a decade away and driving this till I die would be great.

For exterior block painting I use VHT Engine Primer and Engine Paint.
Works well for me.

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Hyper_pak

The Kimball Midwest paint works well also.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Does Kimball have engine paint? What colors do they offer?
I used to know a guy who sold for them. He's no longer with us. This guy worked nights and weekends with me at Sears auto center while working for Kimball during the day. But he used to give us fantastic deals for cash....

You should be able to test fit the cam with the crank in place.
Other books you might want to try to find are old Chilton, motors and Mitchell Auto repair manuals from back in the day.
You don't have to necessarily get "your year", the Chilton and motor manuals used to cover a range of 6-7 years per manual.
And for engines such as ours they stayed much the same internally for more years than one edition would cover. I still have some of the ones my dad used bach before I was old enough to have a driver's license.

Yes they do. See the link below. They have quite a few colors.

I think one of the keys to getting any spray paint to work better/right and last long is to get the moisture out of the metal. I almost always take my propane torch and preheat the metal until I see the water being chased out. We all know that the metal has moisture in it, but I rarely hear anyone say anything about it when they prepare to paint.

https://www.kimballmidwest.com/

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I always have the machine shop seal the block / head in a large plastic bag after hot tanking and machining. Prior to any assembly I remove the block from the bag, mount it on the engine rollover and scrub it with hot water and dawn dish soap, use bottle brushes to scrub the oil passages. I really go after the internal passages, scrub and flush them several times. I do the same scrubbing routine on the head and crank internal passages. Use a bottle brush to also scrub the through and threaded bolt holes.
I rinse it with hot water, dry it with lint free towels, mask the machined areas and paint it. I have always done this work in the late spring early summer when the outdoor temperature is in the 70’s with low humidity.
Regal Red Rustolium spray paint was put on the motor in the 68 Barracuda, not a perfect OE match, but it looks great and has held up much better that other engine specific paints that I have used. black wrinkle spray paint was put on the valve cover and that is a nice accent.
After the paint is dry I remove the masking tape, wipe a light oil on the machined surfaces and re bag the block / head until it is time for assembly.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Was taping off the non paint areas and kept thinking the block already looks painted. So I called the machine shop and they said they did paint it right after dipping/cleaning to keep it from rusting. Guess I don't need to prime the block. Should have paint on this evening.

That makes more sense. I never saw a block that clean!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Was about to put a torch to it last night. Glad I stopped and waited to call.

Noticed the head bolt holes were not chamfered by the machine shop after the block was milled. I have searched and not found a topic on this. How much of a chamfer should there be?

I am not sure that it matters. I never did anything to any of the blocks I had machined. Especially if it was just a small cut.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The chamfer reduces the possibility that a small burr could be kicked up in handling or assembly.
An edge break is all that is needed.
A good sized chamfer is needed a the top of the cylinder bores to help guide the piston rings In during piston insertion.
If a lot is cut off the head / block be sure to verify that the head bolts don’t bottom out. Hardened washers can be set in under the bolt head to restore the proper bolt depth.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I'll check for a chamfer on the bore. Some paint on the block.

Looks like about a .01 chamfer
Just by eyeball. Didn't get the depth mic out. Good enough? I could search but who doesn't like more pictures?