I don't here much about the middle Slant 6. Could this be the best one of the bunch?

Just so few of them, only built for 4 years I believe.
I don't know anyone running one for a performance engine.
Most folks would say why give up 27 cubic inches?
And a lot of folks are using the 198 rods to build long rod engines.
But you probably knew all that.

And what do I know?
I have a 170 on an engine stand waiting for the 198 crank install.

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Hyper_pak

There weren't a lot of them. What makes you think it might be? Its connecting rods are useful for building long-rod 225s. In 1970 and '71 it came with a better carburetor than the 225. other than that, there's nothing notably special or extra-good about it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You can spin higher RPM with a 198, but still giving up the cubes. People talk about rod ratio, but IMHO that is mostly just hot air until you get to really low rod ratios... You can make a 225 produce plenty of power with stock bottom end and a good cylinder head and higher CR. That head will not care much which bottom end it sits on.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

My Duster has a 198, it is the original. I am making a plan to refresh it, this with a 225 crank. Kind of a reverse long rod 225. Hope to have the head, FI manifold and Dutra duals done this season, we will see.

Do you have plans for the 198 rods?

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Hyper_pak

I bet those 198 rods will go in the 225 crank.

Now for the real question, what do you plan to do with that 198 crank?

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Stan and Greg,
My plan is for the 198 rods to go on the 225 crank. My plan for the 198 crank is to put it in a box with the original intake, correct head and original exhaust manifold in case some one ever wants it like it was in 1970.
Cheers,
Tim

Well take the wind out of Our sails why don't Ya' !!

Your plan will work, but only if you get aftermarket (shorter) pistons. This has been done many times. 2.2L Mopar pistons from the 80s work.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Just be aware that there are a couple of stock 2.2 replacement pistons . The non turbo pistons are flat tops, and the turbo pistons are dished. So different compression ratios. Also the turbo pistons allow for floating pins, where the non turbo pistons must be used with pressed pins. Aftermarket "racing" type pistons are another consideration.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks guys, you mean like these?

SILV-O-LITE 1291H Specifications
Bore Diameter (IN) 3.4449
Bore Diameter (MM) 87.5
Compression Height (In) 1.571
Compression Height (mm) 39.9
Compression Ratio 8.0
Crown (cc) +14.5cc
Crown Type Dish
Engine Family Mopar 4-Cylinder
Engine Manufacturer Chrysler
Lock 90
Oil Ring Thickness (mm) 4.0000
Pin Configuration Offset
Pin Number 0901x223A
Pin Type Floating
Piston Head Type Dish
Piston Material Cast 390 Hypereutectic Alloy
Piston Pin Outside Diameter (In) .901
Piston Pin Outside Diameter (mm) 22.9
Second Compression Ring Thickness (mm) 1.5
Top Compression Ring Thickness (mm) 1.5
Top Land .337

Yes, something like that. They used to make forged versions of those pistons for the turbos, but not anymore IIRC. Are you going to be running boost or really high CR or RPM?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I plan on keeping the compression ~8.5/1 so that once I save up enough Pennie’s I can add TorqStorm to it. RPM’s, no, this will be my DFD- daily fun driver! I REALLY NEED to start a build thread for my lil project I guess, thanks for the knowledge!!

If you are going to add more than a few psi of boost, I suggest you get forged pistons. Putting a supercharger on your car opens up a few cans of worms...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988