OK. I got the disc, pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing for my new 10" set up. I have not installed it yet. This set up is similar to the one in the clutch article. I believe the PP is different although it is a diaphram. The PP had to be "trimmed" a little to fit into the bell housing. Red Roberts at Mcleod told me he will mic any future order so it will be ready to install.
Here's a pic of the old vs. new

http://home.comcast.net/~sixty4dart/wsb ... 17717.html

Here's a pic of the new set -up with the flywheel, PP and disc

http://home.comcast.net/~sixty4dart/wsb ... 17719.html

Notice in this picture the flywheel side of the disc is shown. You can see the "buttons". They are made of kevlar and it make for good grip.
The part #'s are as follows:
Flywheel (listed for a slant six) - #464001
Pressure Plate (listed for a 3.7 liter Phord) - #360116
Disc (listed as 10" dual performance) - #260826
Bearing - #16053

The bearing is same as stock I believe so I don't know if it's necessary
Please note that the PP CANNOT be used with a stock flywheel. It has a different bolt pattern.
Mcleod's website is www.mcleodind.com
All pricing can be found on their online catalog.
I won't be installing this for a week, but I'll post how it goes.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

That looks very nice, sixty4. Looks a lot like the setup that Steve Magnante ran in the Slant Sickness article, and Mike Andres now has in his '65 Valiant.

Thankya,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

OK I test bolted the PP with bell housing. There is interference in the starter pocket with the top of the PP. I will have it groung down at McLeod to relieve some of the metal near the straps. Then they can pre grind any sold in the future. If the PP grind is not enough, then additional grinding on the bellhousing would be necessary. They will add a M to the end of the part # to indicate "modified".
Of course, any grinding that has to be done on the bellhousing would be the owners responsibility.
This is , as I stated before, for the NON OD 4 speed bellhousing. We don't know about the OD bellhousing, which is aluminum, I believe.
As far as slant six passenger car 4 speeds, are these two the only bellhousing Chrysler offered?
I think the difference in the Al. BH is on the tranny end. Is there a difference where it bolts to the engine?
Thanks and I'll post my results next week.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

For our compact cars those are the only two types available the non-OD and the OD...The only difference in the OD is the larger retainer pocket, and they are aluminum (you won't catch me grinding anything out of one of those...). According to some parts swapping guides, the 'big' cars (B/C bodies) with the slant 6 could be equipped with the 'truck clutch' 11" bellhousing and flywheel (probably much more room in that road tank anyway...). Not sure about the fit in an A-body, I have one available to me, that I have to 'pull' and it comes with a stock hydraulic setup that might help Z-bar issues with that bell....


-D.Idiot

I got the clutch in finally!
I've learned a lot especially since I did the head and new cam at the same time.
The PP had to be ground down and I took a picture. I will post it soon.
The clutch pedal is not too hard. I had to remove the over center spring like Rick Covalt did. I have a similar problem with the fork geometry. I put in a longer rod, and it seems to work, but I am getting a rub on one of my exhaust pipes with the clutch fork.
I will probably pull the tranny back out
and space the "L" bracket in the bellhousing.
Rick spaced his 9/16", but he has a different PP.
Anyone know if I can do this just by removing the boot, fork, and dust shield?
I don't like putting the tranny in by myself and I don't want to do it again!
Anyway, I'm happy with the soft pedal and it grabs excellent. I don't know what else to check. Hopefully I can get to the track this on Sat.
Any questions are welcomed!

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Yes you can put the spacers in without removing the transmission. ( At least we were able to with ours) There is not a lot of room but it was still a lot better than removing the tranny again. Our headers hit also. I took off the Z-Bar and put a little dog-leg in it the get it to clear the headers. This affectively moved the arm over to the drivers side about 3/4", if I remember correctly. This does not give a straight push on the clutch fork but with the pedal effort being so light, it has never given us any problems.

Rick

We were running the MP 6 into 1 header

Excellent! I may have it easier than that. I don't have interference with the header, but with the pipe. I need to pull down the exhaust to get the clutch fork out, so I'm going to ding the pipe while it's out.
Thanks for the info.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

I put 2 thick washers in (about 3/16") behind the "L" bracket that the fork pivots on. The geometry is much improved and I was able to put the original bar back in between the fork and "Z" bar.
The pedal is soft and it grabs really well. There is no longer a noise (I think it was rubbing the exhaust because of the longer bar) and I went to the track and gave it a good break in (beating). No problems whatsoever.

Just as a reminder, if anyone wants to order this set up, you must put an "m" at the end of the pressureplate part number, so that they grind it down for you. (i.e. #360116m)
Any advice/thoughts or questions are welcomed of course.

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."