Does anyone know what the factory stall was in a 65 225 and what is the max stall I can use?

Need more info.

Torque converter stall speed varies with engine characteristics. What are the specs on your engine? What kind of car is this going in (street-driven, full-race, something in between)? What is it you are trying/hoping to accomplish? Torque converter stall speed is not a "higher = better" deal.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

65 dart 225 2 dr Sedan. .40 over flat top pistons. 294 495 Erson cam. Oversized valves. T/D roller rockers. Port polished head milled .110. Block decked .15. Balanced blue printed. Steel crank. A904 with shift kit. True 2.5 in dual exhaust. 8.25 rear 3.55 gear! Clifford Performace intake system 500cfm 2 bbl! Thats all I can think of!

3 questions. Is the block decked .015 or .150? Also what year is the crank shaft (67 or older - 68 or newer?) What year is the transmission (65 or older, 66-67, or 68 or newer)?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Original engine 225! tranny 65 as far as I know! Colum shift! Block is decked .015 thousand

…and you'll be driving this car how? Down a dragstrip? Round a racetrack? To the grocery store and around town? On long highway trips?

What tire size and rear axle ratio will you be running?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Everyday driver street. 3.55 gear. rear tire 245 60 15

Okeh, so with those gears and those tires, you're looking at 2,700 RPM at 60 mph, same as an A-body with the original 6.50 × 13 tires and 3.23 rear axle. Use a stock torque converter. Higher stall speed will just mean pouring gasoline money down the toilet for no practical gain.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, I don't agree. That is a fairly aggressive cam for a street car. I think that car will be pretty doggy away from a stop light, with a stock converter If it were me I would call Edge Racing Converters, and see what Andre recommends. There are not very many companies that will still make a converter for the small pilot, and/or small spline. Edge made my last one.
https://edgeracingconverters.com/

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Oops, got caught up in the revs-per-mile and left out the camshaft.

(That's more cam than I'd want in a street-driver, but that wasn't the question.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You are forgiven.
It might be even more aggressive due to the rocker arms. They might be 1.6 ratio compared to the 1.4x of the stock rockers

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Just a thought; a 500 Holley 2 bbl is going to be a challenge to tune for daily driving.

If your looking for a new hobby, the Holley 500 on a street driven slant might just fit the bill.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I agree. I run a 500 Holly 2bbl on my race car, and did on my street/strip car. It leaves a lot to be desired for street driving. The barrel/venturi are too large for good low speed drivability.
Much better choice to use a small 4 bbl with Vacuum secondaries.
PS: Don't forget the CFM of a 2bbl, is measured differently than a 4bbl. A 500 cfm 2 bbl is about the same as a 390 4bbl at the same measurement point.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I have built many cars/engines very much like the one you have, and driven them a combined total of over 150,000 street (and track) miles since 1991. I strongly recommend a 2800-3000 stall converter. Call Andre at Edgeracingconverters and he can likely set you up. Modern high stall converters do not slip much at all compared to yesteryear. A 2800 RPM converter will only lose you about 1-2 MPG in mileage and will make the car super fun to drive. A stock or near-stock converter will be miserable with that cam/engine setup.

My experience with the Holley 500 2bbl is that is works quite well on the street, even on mild Slant 6 (225) engines. Even better would be an Edebrock 500 or 600 4bbl, but the Holley 500 is a good choice too. It is about the simplest thing out there.

Respectfully, I'm afraid Dan is talking way out of his element in this case.

Where are you located?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I think people tend to oversimplify what a converter does. It is not like a clutch where at the stall speed the car moves, it only stalls when you apply enough resistance to make it stall. A 3000-3500 acts pretty much like any street converter until you pour the beans to it.

Stall is affected by engine power, car weight, rear gear, traction, and brake holding power.

Example, if you took the converter out of Lou's 300 horse blower car that weighs 3400 and stalls at 3000 and put it in my car that is 225 horse and weighs 2800 it will only stall around 2600.

I have a 5000ish stall in the Valiant. IF the car didn't move until 5000 it would be impossible to even load on the trailer without killing someone. Driving around the pits and on the return road it is barely noticeable. I monitor trans temp and it usually takes about 3 runs to even get to 180*.

I see too many times where someone leaves performance on the table by being too conservative with their stall speed choice. I like at least 3000 in anything, and have driven thousands of miles on the highway with a 3800.

The wild card in this is percentage of slip. A well made converter will usually have 5-7% or so. Cheap converters can get as high as 20%. That is where the heat and gas mileage issues arise.

As said before, contact a reputable converter company if you don't want an off the shelf may work/may not piece.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.