I have acquired a complete super-6 (meaning: intake and exhaust mans, carter BBD mounted on it, Kickdown linkage and bracket, even the air cleaner assembly). (yea yea it ain't no hyper pack, but it's a step up from the 1920 on the car now!)

The Carb is covered in grime, but I have purchased a rebuild kit to make things right. My problem(s) is: One of the two studs for the exhaust pipe link to the manifold is broken off about 1/2 inch from the manifold. I have soaked it in ol WD40 but not even vice grips are making a dent. Is there a substancial risk -w- heating the surrounding material? I wouldn't think so seeing as how it's the EXHAUST manifold!

The other issue is: Now what? Does the Super-6 need different exhaust? if so, how much bigger should I go? Lastly, what will the net results be like with new exhaust/timing/etc... I've heard everything from 5HP to 20HP gained, and local /6ers say that my milage will nearly be the same as with the 1920, but I don't know if that's so or not. Any thoughts or information greatly appreciated!

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When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

WD-40 , despite the hype on the can, is not a penetrant. Matter of fact, I cannot think of anything WD-40 does well.

There is one—and only one—penetrant to have on hand when you are dealing with parts that have been married for decades and do not wish to get a divorce. It is called Kroil and comes from https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/kanopnlu.htm.

Heating the flange can be done with care, but the risk is warping the flange. If Kroil and Vise-Grips don't remove the stud, just go ahead and drill it out, securing the headpipe to the exhaust manifold with a pair of stainless steel bolts (inserted from the top), a pair of stainless or, preferably, brass nuts (attached from the bottom) and two pairs of flatwashers (one under the boltheads, one under the nuts).

The difference, if you need to have a number, is approximately 15 horsepower. The bigger difference is improved torque and driveability.

1920s were used from 1962 through 1972, donno what year your car is. You do not have to have a different exhaust system; your existing system will bolt up. But, starting in '76, the factory put a 2¼" headpipe on slant-6 cars, which works a good deal better than the 1¾" headpipe found on earlier cars. Do not go overboard with the exhaust system; noisy exhausts are fun for a week and then they get annoying in a very big hurry. You can get good results without huge expense by using a 2¼ headpipe, the muffler specified for a V8 Dart or Valiant, and a factory V8 type 1-7/8" tailpipe.

I completely spaced the car/year part: Car is a 1972 Dart Swinger /6 + A904 + 7 1/4 Rear.

I don't intend to do anything radical with the exaust, but I'd like 2 or 2 1/4 when it's feasable. I intend to keep the cam mild and I am building a strong, reliable, but fun daily driver not a street/strip-mobile. Thanks for the information on the results.

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

You will find you need a different throttle cable for that Syooopah Six setup -- the 2bbl cable is shorter than the 1bbl cable and looping the 1bbl cable to "shorten" it introduces too much friction into the throttle mechanism.

The tricky part about improving the exhaust (besides not going overboard, which is completely in your control -- just get the premium Walker or Goerlich muffler for a '72 Dart with a 340) is finding a pipefitter skilled enough to create the tricky flange junction at the top of the 2¼" headpipe. It's sometimes easier to find a '76 or later slant car in the yard and saw off the top 10 inches or so of the headpipe and simply weld downward off of that factory-built flange.

I think I can arrange to acquire the top part of a post 76 /6 car's exaust. Would the exaust of a /6 truck post 76 also work?

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

in my personal experience with the super six i have had no problem using the factory 1 bbl throttle cable. im sure a shorter cable would be a better choice but i wouldnt let the search for a shorter cable slow your progress. the longer one can be used till you locate a shorter one.

[quote="SlantSixDan"]WD-40 , despite the hype on the can, is not a penetrant. Matter of fact, I cannot think of anything WD-40 does well.

There is one—and only one—penetrant to have on hand when you are dealing with parts that have been married for decades and do not wish to get a divorce. It is called Kroil and comes from [url]https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/kanopnlu.htm[/url].

Heating the flange can be done with care, but the risk is warping the flange. If Kroil and Vise-Grips don't remove the stud, just go ahead and drill it out, securing the headpipe to the exhaust manifold with a pair of stainless steel bolts (inserted from the top), a pair of stainless or, preferably, brass nuts (attached from the bottom) and two pairs of flatwashers (one under the boltheads, one under the nuts).


The difference, if you need to have a number, is approximately 15 horsepower. The bigger difference is improved torque and driveability.

1920s were used from 1962 through 1972, donno what year your car is. You do not [i]have[/i] to have a different exhaust system; your existing system will bolt up. But, starting in '76, the factory put a 2¼" headpipe on slant-6 cars, which works a good deal better than the 1¾" headpipe found on earlier cars. Do not go overboard with the exhaust system; noisy exhausts are fun for a week and then they get annoying in a very big hurry. You can get good results without huge expense by using a 2¼ headpipe, the muffler specified for a V8 Dart or Valiant, and a factory V8 type 1-7/8" tailpipe.[/quote]

WD40 is in fact great for hinges and coating any type of metal from moisture Thats exactly what we use it for in our restoration shop!.Also with the kroil,I have used it and i like it,but pb blaster is a way better product.I have done a few studies of my own and pb blaster comes out on top.Also on getting the stud out,just keep lubricating it and heat it up with a toarch slowly and you wont warp anything,just dont direct the heat in one spot.Now for the h.p numbers,no one can give you an exact number cause every mill is different,depending on how tuned it is you could see anything from 0-35 h.p,but you will never know unless you have a dyno.Go with a 2 1/4 single exhaust with a good free flowing muffler.But to get the full effect of the super six you will need to port and polish the head and go with a holley 2300.I had my Duster dynoed after a polish,port,and gasket match the head,super six,2 1/4 exhaust with a dynomax ultraflow muffler,and the holley 2300.and got 150 h.p at the rear wheels.Had it dynoed before with the engine stock at 98 h.p,so a 52 h.p gain over stock.

If you are anything like me you are asking these questions because you are on a budget and want to install this thing ASAP but aren't looking to spend a lot more money right now. you do not need a shorter throttle cable I have been using my stock long one for almost 2 years. your exhaust will bolt up directly as well. make sure when you use your penetrating oil you put it on both ends of the broken stud(there is a hole that comes through on the top side). heat both sides of the stud also. When you go to bolt up the stock 1 3/4" pipe make sure you get a nice thick gasket. there is also a hanger on the pipe that bolts to the trans. take this bolt out so you get a little more flex in the exhaust system and get a good seal to the manifold. remember to put the bolt back after it is torqued down.
You mentioned a hyper-pac. these are no good on an engine that isn't worked to the gills. they are for race engines only.
Dart4life, did you do a gear swap also between dynos? 52horse is really a lot for a super six swap. either way well done. the desk top calculator I use said I went from 151 to 158 horse power going from a 7 1/4w/ 2.76's to an 8 1/4w/3.21's at the rear wheels.

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G'morning,

Everybody has good information, and it's nice to see a consensous on stuff (Except for the value of WD40, which I have had mixed results with). I will indeed treat -n- heat the flange until the broken stud comes out. I don't know if anyone else has heard of this stuff, but there is a great spray-can penetrating oil/liquid wrench product on the market called JB 80. Anyone else ever used Justice Brothers products? My dad was a dealer for their products throughout the 1980s. The stuff works WAY Better than WD40, but it's hard to locate here, and no my dad doesn't sell it anymore

As to the time/budget/energy/soul of the project: I have some budget but not thousands and thousands. I am not a teen-ager, and I have enough patience to see the project through.

As for the exhaust: I can afford to immediately put in any exhaust system that I need for the super six, provided that It's not more than a thousand dollars. Would going to Dutra Duals be more effective than large dia. single?

About induction and tuning: I know the BBD isn't a monster, but I have heard of fast cars (running in the 14's) with this carb. How much better is the 2300 Holley than the BBD? Is it just larger (in CFM)? I am in the process of strengthening up the bottom end and putting in a brand new oil pump. When it's said and done, I'd like 140+ HP and 250+ Ft/Lb at the wheels without the go Juice on, and I am planning on 75 HP of Spray. I am not going to mill the heads (Obviously since I am planning on NOS), but porting them isn't out of the question. I assume most good porting on this head is matching intake/exhaust shape and uncovering the valve area?

I've got tons of questions but I'm willing to learn, and I'll wait until a definite plan develops before I begin each step.

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

From what I've read the 2300 is larger(350cfm) than the BBD(280cfm) but it is a staged 2barrel. thet means you run on one barrel until you stomp on it then the secondary opens. this is great for milage as well as power.
The shop I went to for exhaust work they got me for $90 to make a 2.5" pipe from me headers to the muffler(a cherrybomb turbo that I supplied) and a 2.25 pipe out the back including including clamps a hanger and labor. I thought it was a good deal.

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Hey 70Valiant how does the Cherrybomb turbo sound? I have been looking at getting one.

You CAN use the one barrel cable.

Dutra Dual with two inch pipes all the way back is a good street setup. I would recommend flowmasters over cherry bombs, simply for the sake of sanity and hearing loss.

The Holley 2300 is NOT a staged two barrel, but the Holley 2305 is. The Holley 2300 is a big step up form the stock BBD, but if your motor is a stock engine than the BBD is probably plenty of carb. It sounds like you are planning some big mods to your motor, so the 2300 may be a better choice simply because it offers more "tuneability" than a BBD.

Try and find a locally owned muffler shop. I have one a few blocks from my house that will extract broken studs out of my exhaust manifolds for free.

Timing should definitely be played with. Slant "like" 10-12 BTDC base timing. You also can play around with your distributor curve by changing springs and messing with the vacuum advance pod, but that is a whole other project. Focus on getting the Super Six done right first.

Other things you should consider if you are really going to beef up your motor are your brakes (9 inch drums are okay for a stock slant, not good for a strong motor). You should at the minimum move up to 10 inch drums in front, if not go the whole route to discs.

Also, you may need to start thinking about your tranny and torque converter if you get too wild with your cam and induction.

My Front end is getting a Disc Conversion, and I am considering a rear disc kit too. I have a line on a front disc setup with A-arms for ~$250 which seems pretty good considering what a nearby mopar yard wanted ($430). I have finally located another suregrip equipped 8 1/4 rear which should survive what I want to do to the ol /6. The 904 tranny is supposed to be ok for a strong slant motor, and I am not one for really nasty launches anyway. Thanks for the info on the holley issue. I don't know if i'll need the extra CFM, I really am trying to keep the cam & timing reasonable, and compression low enough not to hurt anything using 75 HP of NOS once and a while (not every day!).

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

Phil-
No I didnt change gears,tires,timing or anything. I just did the listed mods,drove down to vegas and hooked it up to a dyno and pulled thoose numbers,I was very impressed.Oh i did go with a k&n air filter though.But that car was sold 2 months ago

the cherrybomb turbo muffler(it's NOT a glasspac) sounds really good. I have had people tell me is cant be a /6 sounding that good.
It has a nice growl with out being obnoxiously loud. It drones a little over 2200rpm but can be easily drowned out with the stereo(playing classic rock) with the windows open.

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