Hi Karl, thanks for following along.

Some good tips there on the Cam Bearing Cutters. I will hopefully not need to try that, but it is possible that the quality and precision of new aftermarket parts could be questionable.

You seem to have the same spirit as myself and some other close friends on the board here.
Your recollections remind me of Seymour and Lou as they almost always drove to Drag Races, and somewhat long distances too (1,000's of miles) at times. I love driving the old cars and I will continue to do so as I can. A lot of those modern conveniences are not needed in my opinion. (I sometimes refer to them as engineered laziness)

I have a purpose-built drag racing vehicle for such antics and I rarely have driven a vehicle to a drag race and then race it. But I hope to do much more in the way of track days HPDE and Auto X this year and future years!

Cheers!

Greg

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1/20/25

I have been slowly working on things here.

I decided after the Lobe failure, to examine the Spring pressures. This is an old Jeffery Head, and I never checked the spring pressures. Ken at OCG says to try to get ~120# Seat Pressure at the installed height and 250# open for this cam.

The Seat Pressures were good, but the open pressure was high, so i ordered a new set of PAC Catalog MoPar springs and they will knock down the open pressures.

While I Had the head apart, measured installed heights and checked all of the new springs at their installed and open heights. This head had no Shims anywhere under any of the springs. I found out that It has nice Ferrea Chevy Valves @ ~1.8 and 1.5 with 11/32" Stems. There are no seals on the exahsuts, Just on the intakes.
I ordered some 0.015" and 0.020" valve spring shims to more closley match the spring pressures and Installed heights.

At the same time I cleaned up all the gunk on the backside of the intake valves and observed the seats - It looks like 2 Exhaust valves have practically no seat area on them... so Off to the machine shop it goes tomorrow, for some seat touch up work.

I wanted to avoid heading to the machine shop, but it is not so this time.

I also Am going to change out the oil pump. I had a nice, light Aluminum rebuilt stock unit in there, but with my extra oil pump gear sprayer, I was never happy with the Oil pressure.

This replacement unit needed some massaging in the casting, which I do on all of my oil pumps now when I get into a slant 6 build.

Head on the bench, with cruddy Intakes.


Dirty Valve Right,
Cleaned up Valve Left.


I am no trained expert, but this seat contact width seems too small to me.


This pump casting could use some massaging in certain areas.



Excess Flash:



Smoother and some radiused flow around the bends.






With lots of snow shoveling, plowing, sled riding as well as trips to the mountains, progress has slowed down a bit on this project.
We have not had winter for 4-5 years so i am thoroughly enjoying this cold and Snowy January 2025!
It also is projected to be -10° F this week, so I probably wont get back to working on finishing the valve cover until the temperatures go up again.
Fortunately, my engine assembly area has heat so I can work on getting the oil pump painted, installed and as well as the oil pan set on the engine this week while the head goes back to the Machine shop.

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I dropped the Head off at the Machine shop today after work, instead of in the morning due to Road conditions.
What a difference 8 hours and some sun and Salt can make for the road conditions. The Snow stopped falling, that helped too.

I am going to get all of the seats and valves checked over while I had it this far apart.

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1/21/25:

Last Night I got the Oil Pump re-assembled.

I am going to try out an adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator from 440 Source.
Beats having to futz with the pipe plug and sometimes removing the passenger Side Engine Mount to swap Springs, add shims etc.




All assembled and ready for Paint:



First Coat Applied last night:



Machine Shop said that my head with touched up seats should be ready by the end of the week too!

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Cool stuff, Greg. That is amazing that exh valve contact. Gotta be that Mike's shop put mismatched angles on valve and seat - weird. Cool little oil P gizmo...

Slant on,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes and I thought a Jeffery head would have a 3 or 5 angle on the intake valve as well, but no single angle.

Greg

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1/25/25:

I got to the Shop today and accomplished a few things:

• installed the oil pump

• realized that the adjustable oil pressure regulator hits the motor mount

• modified the passenger motor mount bracket for oil pressure regulator clearance

• installed and sealed the oil pan

• did a bit of touch up painting on the engine block after assembly of parts

Oil Pump was done and paint was dry..


Time to install it:


Found out upon installation that there would be no room to make any pressure adjustments.


Did a little surgery and cutting on my mark:


And some paint to cover up the scars:



Got the Pan install complete as well.




Hopefully I can get the head setup next week with touched up seats, valves, new springs, setting valve spring installed heights and pressures. Also a bit more of the block touch-up needs completed, and with possibly warmer temperatures above freezing, I can get back to working on that custom valve cover too.

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Awesome work Greg!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Had a message on my phone, that my 198 rods are done. 6 reconditioned with ARP bolts, and 12 others checked to see if they are salvageable after another shop screwed them up.

Spent the day Sat working on the heat pump for the shop. Even though the daytime temps are getting into the 50's and 60's, the nights are going into the high 20's and low 30's. The shop doesn't warm up enough to make me want to work out there. The AC unit did work but the heat would not go to defrost mode correctly.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Good Deal Charlie, Hopefully those rods will all size out correctly.

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1/26/25:

Items accomplished today:

• passenger side motor mount with cutout for adjustable pressure regulator installed

• finished respraying and touching up rusty or flaky areas on the block

• installed and timed distributor for "first fire"

• detailed some more bolts (there are always bolts to detail)

Oil pump / motor mount clearance:


Repaint on cruddy areas:


Other small bits installed, oil filter, dist, motor mounts etc.


This sandblasting and painting fixture has sure come in handy. Glad I made it.



Bell housing cleaning and repainting as well as head re assembly to come!

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2/3/25:

I was able to pick up the head at the machine shop on Friday after work.
They touched up all of the valve faces and seats to make sure that the mating surfaces were proper and good.


When I received the head back at the shop, I spent Friday evening remeasuring and setting installed heights and pressures - some of the seat and face work changed the measurements by 0.010".
I was able to get the new springs installed and with the supplied assortment of shims I got the heights and pressures reasonably close to one another.



Next up was some bell housing cleaning; washed it up real good in the parts washer, and then took it to the blast cabinet.
It was paint on top of old flaky paint, and it was coming off, so I figured I would spend some time getting it nice before this install.
Red on old black paint.


Over-spray on the inside drives me nuts.


All clean and ready for paint, back from the abrasive cabinet vacation.



Bolts, bolts, there are always bolts to clean and paint too.


In the "paint booth"


Done, unmasked ready for paint to cure and waiting with other parts to be reassembled.


A little clean up and repaint on the head as well.


I hope to have the head on there for next week and before I reinstall it back in the car, I am going to refit my EFI manifold and make some marks for cuts in the Header I bought a year or 2 ago to get the EFI webers moving along.

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2/9/25:

Some progress has been made.

Last Week, I was able to do some cutting, grinding and welding on my semi-custom valve cover. Still quite a bit of work there to get things all done.




Gasket all coppered up ready for an install:


Lifters installed:


Head installed and Torqued to Spec:


The last time I had the engine together I was unhappy with the oil flow to the rockers and top of the engine.
The only thing I changed on the last iteration in 2023 was the head bolts(studs).
On the other performance engines with the ARP Head studs I have built ('69 Dart) and (the Ruster) I always turned or had a machine shop turn for me one of the studs down to the diameter of the stock head bolt so that the oil passage to the rockers would not be restricted around the ARP Stud, which is noticeably girthierer than a stock head bolt.

I did not do that last time but I did this time, so hopefully I will be happier with the results.


So except for the the Intake, Headers, some hoses and other bolt ons, the engine is complete, I set the Timing and Cold lash so that after priming the oil pump with no spark plugs and compression, I should be able to Put fuel to the carb and Fire it right up.

One other thing that I did was begin to find out where and how much of the # 6 header tube I need to cut to use the Weber DCOE style EFI setup. I need to completely cut and then add some radiused length of tubing for the # 6 tube for my manifolds to work together as the intake also hits the #5 intake runner as I have removed half the diameter of the #6 tube already. No amount of just dinging it would work here, I would have closed up half of the tube or more.

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Great progress Greg!

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Thanks Dennis, i am glad you are enjoying my documentation of the trials and tribulations here.

Greg

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