Yes second green can go to the tack.


My power wire from the main harness(or your Relay) comes across the back of the firewall to the passenger side where I have my coil mounted. Wire is Tee'd with one wire dropping into the coil and the other going on further to the positive side of the module. Nothing fancy. Just good solid connections.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Hi guys,

With the help from the guide I’ve installed the HEI to get rid of the leanburn. However, I’m pretty sure I made a mistake wiring the relay, since it will only run without the relay.

I’ve used a Hella 4RA 965 400-071 relais.
30 – powered directly by battery with 15amp fuse.
85 – ground
86 – To coil +
87 – To coil +

I guess 86 should go somewhere else. I’ve got a few pictures from the spark control box behind the battery. Does anyone know which cable I should connect to 86? I can't use the wire from the ballast resistor since the leanburn system did no longer use the ballast resistor.

30: load circuit in, you've got this right.
85: trigger circuit ground, you've got this right.
86: trigger circuit feed, you've got this wrong (should go to ignition-switched +12v)
87: load circuit out

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So after a lot of rewiring and repair all of these things has started to work like they are supposed to. The NOS voltage reg on a relay has done the trick. This should be related to this conversion as to my question. I have radio noise now where I didn’t have it previously. All the wiring is new and on its own circuit. I know that the condensers primary purpose was for exactly this radio noise removal. So, do I put it back in somewhere along the coil or add a noise suppressor inline somewhere? And btw, thanks Dan for all you do for everyone here. And to the countless others who have helped me, it is not forgotten.

Good morning,

I’m in the middle of the HEI upgrade and am hoping this is an easy one…

I’d like to mount my coil and module close to my firewall. However, this calls for a longer coil wire.

Anyone sourced an ‘off the shelf’ coil wire of about 20” that will work with the stock distributor cap and the male fitting on the coil??

Thanks, as always

Put a "condenser" (capacitor) from coil primary negative to ground, and see if that helps.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just wrapped up the HEI upgrade and she runs great! I did not install the relay as advised but have one and will install it shortly. I wanted to ensure I had everything wired properly and that she’d run.

A couple of questions:

1) I installed the ignition module on the underside of a bracket I picked-upina local junkyard. Will this trip too much heat? Should I make the effort to relocate it and the heat sink to the top of the bracket??

2) I installed an NOS electronic distributor and it ran fine. Is there anything inside the distributor that I need to adjust?

Thanks Folks!

NOS distributors often have crudded-up lube in the advance mechanism, so wise to clean/relube. Depending on the original intended application for the distributor, its advance curves may or may not be optimal for your application; distributors can be recurved. I don't see a problem with your module setup; it appears to be mounted to a heatsink.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thank you Dan

Hello everyone
I converted to HEI in my 1975 Dodge pickup back in 2017. Reliable from day one, never had any start problems. I parked the truck last year when life got busy and never went back to it until a few months ago when I decided I really need to drive it. No start, no time to mess with it then so I put it off. Came back a while later looking for obvious signs of damage, missing parts, rodent intrusion, lack of fuel, all the obvious stuff that may cause it to not start. Then I found no spark. Recently, I began working through the system checking for voltage where I expect to find it (my set up uses a relay), confirmed grounds are good, distributor rotor spins as it should, I searched the forum looking for threads that describe similar symptoms, those were all helpful and things check out, but still nothing. I swapped in spare coil and HEI module, no change. I measured good coil primary and secondary resistance on both coils. I checked the coil to distributor cap wire resistance and it checked good. I'm kinda at a loss for what to do next.
Any suggestions of other things to look into? I know I missed listing everything done so far, I just can't remember everything right now.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Could be a faulty pickup in the distributor. Could be a faulty ignition switch or wiring from the switch to the ignition system (corroded terminals in the bulkhead disconnect?). Could be a faulty HEI relay.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan! I’ll continue investigating those areas.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Power the HEI directly from the battery with a jumper and that will verify the module and pick up are Ok.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Good idea, thanks Rick.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1