I can't get my 67 Barracuda convertible inspection sticker because of the parking brake. 9" drum brakes with new everything, drums, shoes, etc. I thought it might be the shoes having some high spots keeping them from full contact with the drums, so I drove a mile or two with the e-brake engaged. I took the shoes back off and sanded down the contact spots, and put a rough finish on the shoe material. I've tried to lengthen and shorten the pull of the brake handle, adjusting the 1 to two cable adjuster under the car. I've also adjusted the brake shoes outward until they are about contacting the drums, the road wheel makes a revolution when spun by hand and then stops. Still the brakes won't hold.
I realize the 9" drums are minimal, but they work fine otherwise, with discs up front. Also modern 4-wheel disc brakes hold OK with much smaller e-brake shoes. The only thing I haven't tried is adjusting the shoes further from the drums to get a different grab on the drums. What am I missing here? Ragtop season is moving toward winter.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Does the parking brake engage and function in reverse? Traditionally the little drums were less than great in reverse, but could keep the car from rolling forward. They are parking brakes not "emergency" brakes as many people now refer to them.

If you have a functional p brake in reverse I would suspect that you have shoes swapped from leading shoe to trailing shoe. It has been a long time since I had 9" drums apart but I remember them using a standard long shoe/short setup. Since aftermarket/replacement parts have been trash for 20 years and the OEM 9" drums/hardware have been out of production for 50 years it is hard to suggest a source for good quality parts.

How new is "all new"? It takes a long time and a lot more use than a mile or two with the handbrake on to finish-cure and bed in the shoes – much longer than it did with shoes made before the early 1990s. You can speed this up somewhat by cooking the shoes in an old toaster oven; about 2 hours at 450°F.

The correct brake adjustment procedure is to tighten until you get minimal shoe/drum contact while turning the wheel, then go in the car and stomp hard on the pedal to centre the brakes, then repeat until stomping the pedal no longer eliminates the shoe/drum contact, then back off a counted few notches (so you can count the same number on the other side).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've been buying everything I find on eBay that's new but looks old. I'll bet my new brake parts I just put on the rear end going in my truck are every bit of 35+ years old. And I have another complete set of everything besides for just in case.
In the suggestion about backing off the shoes for more travel that's the last thing you want to do
That'll make it worse. Have you measured your drums? Is the diameter maxed out or worse? You want the star wheels adjusted out as far as possible without any drag, when brake isn't applied as you can get

Great replies, everyone! I'll see what I can do. They do grab pretty well in the forward direction and very little in reverse. I'm going to adjust them as much as possible and then try to bed them in applying while driving some more. I go to a hard-a$$ inspector since I do my own work and appreciate a second set of eyes on the safety features. No mercy from that guy.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Drum brakes don't hold well going in reverse.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Is that inspector the only one you can use?
How much can you drive it without passing this inspection? Do you live in the country or in town? Id be taking it down the road as much as I could before the next inspection attempt

I could take it somewhere else. Live in town and also rent, so I can only get out while landlord is out during the day. Otherwise I would be riding the brake on midnight rides. The sticker was due last January, that perfect convertible month. I have the idea of taking it to an inspection place on the way to the beach, about a half-hour drive. I also thought of backing into the spot at the usual inspection station and cranking the brake. Last time the inspector drove it out in reverse, with the e-brake doing nothing much.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

It sounds to me like Slantfin is more interested in fixing the problem correctly than in shopping around for a slackaѕѕ inspector who'll overlook a nonfunctioning parking brake, which rational grownups correctly consider a real safety defect.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's right. Having lost brakes on my 66 Valiant, with the single pot master cylinder, more brakes better.
I think I have spotted the problem. Giving the brakes one more going-over, I noticed one of the adjuster cables was slack. It turns out the secondary spring wasn't holding the cable guide against the shoe web. I just corrected the situation, but haven't tested it yet.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

slant fin check your private messages. i am sort of local and maybe able to help

Who said anything about "slack ass"? I sure didn't.