You're reminding me of one of my teenaged follies; search this page for pointy little head.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ha! Luckily I've now had enough similar experiences that the daily gets first repair priority, and the truck gets second. The Scamp is a distant third but the other two have been trouble-free, despite one having a big badge on the front that says "JEEP."

Alright, I've got it narrowed down now; anything more than 16 degrees of timing makes it misfire. 16 is the most it gets out of the mechanical advance plus the five degrees of base, or base plus vacuum advance. It'll go past idle with the vac advance hooked up, but only until the mechanical starts to kick in. Ignition is strong and steady according to the light. I've taken the carb apart twice today, nothing wrong with it. All ports clear, all check balls in, no vacuum leaks as far as I can tell. No leaks at the manifold; used a Remflex gasket. PCV is hooked up, brake booster doesn't leak, I'm running out of things to check here. Before anyone asks, no, the needle and seat don't leak, and the floats aren't sunk. Changing float height had the single effect of making the accelerator pump not work as well.

I found another post on this forum, from years ago, of someone with the exact same issue - of course, they never explained how or if they ever solved it.

Naw y'ain't, yet. »cough«StillThinkItCouldBeYerCamTiming»cough«

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

This thing has had about 50k on it since its last rebuild, sometime in the 90s. The timing set is an old Cloyes kit, so not exactly bad quality, and I saw a video of this thing running and running well. Previous owner had zero issues with it. I'll check valve timing from the top end, but I'm not tearing the timing cover off again unless I can find a good reason.

Alright, here we go, definitive proof that the cam timing is just fine. Stuck a dial indicator on the #1 intake rocker with the rocker depressed onto the pushrod via the spring in the dial indicator. As I understand it, most if not all stock slant six cams should have the intake opening 10 degrees BTDC. So I turned the crank until the dial indicator moved, stopped it, annnnd...



Eleven degrees BTDC! Or twelve. Take your pick, doesn't really matter as two degrees difference shouldn't matter either way, let alone cause the issues I've been having.

Edit: Just went out and checked for reversed wires in the pickup harness and, as expected, nothing wrong with them.

Okeh, next question: where are the rest of the hoses that are meant to be connected to your charcoal can?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Rotted off or deleted. Tank has a vented cap and all the ports on the carb that aren't needed are plugged off. I think the one that's left is connected to the tank vent.

Have you sprayed carb claner around the manifold to head junction? The Remflex can seal well, but they can tear/split also. I had a bad air leak on start up of a new engine one time and it would barely start at all. It was on the underside of the intake against the head.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Did that, yeah. Also used a mirror to check the underside of the intake for cracks; found none. Actually had to get the gasket replaced twice on the seller's dime because they kept packing the thing in a cardboard sleeve with too little cushioning, and the slant 6 gasket is both heavy enough and weak enough to crush itself sideways if it slides around in the packaging.

Ugh. Fix this bodged-up mess correctly when you get a chance and a bunch of stuff will get better. Read this for info. Be sure the hose routing to and from the charcoal can follows Chrysler's directions as described here and pictured here.

As to your more immediate problem of low power output and crummy running: any ping/spark knock? And what's the car's exhaust system like? Old, new? Stock/other?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Maybe a video of this running would help? You do know the last thing you check will be the first thing that was wrong! Hang in there you will figure it out.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ugh. Fix this bodged-up mess correctly when you get a chance and a bunch of stuff will get better. Read this for info. Be sure the hose routing to and from the charcoal can follows Chrysler's directions as described here and pictured here.

As to your more immediate problem of low power output and crummy running: any ping/spark knock? And what's the car's exhaust system like? Old, new? Stock/other?
[/quote]

I don't hear any pinging, but it's kinda hard to hear anyrhing at all over the fan noise and exhaust. The exhaust is a stock manifold followed by a 2.25" pipe I fabricated with a stock exhaust flange i welded to it. It's not restrictive, if that's what you're thinking.

I'll get a video later today.

Here we go, meant to do this a lot earlier but completely forgot.

https://youtu.be/tQLAP2ZY8dc?si=wJeT8cxC8GrUWMP2

No idea how to embed youtube videos on this forum. Ignore the knock, that's a loose rocker.

Please try again with the microphone out of the exhaust blast. The "wind" noise is masking any misfires we're supposed to be hearing. Put the camera off to the side of the tailspout, not in line with it.

Then also bring the camera to the front of the car and let us see/hear what the engine looks and sounds like up there.

In both places, try to demonstrate the misfire.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.