I'm in the process of installing a new headliner in my Valiant, and wondered if anyone knows any tricks to make it easier. The headliner came without instructions.

I installed the rear clamp first, then hooked the bows into their respective locations. I now need to get the material into the front "Clamp" between the roof support and the rubber gasket.

Thoughts? I was thinking of using a drywall tool to insert it. Looks like a big putty knife.

CJ

I used a putty knife, but be careful the corners don't punch holes in the material.

It looks like they cut the pockets too long for the bows. The material is bunching up as it comes to the sides. I'm thinking of shortening the pockets slightly so it will stretch out.
I'm not sure the position of the fabric I placed in the rear clamp is going to allow me to tighten the rear bow correctly. There are two wire tensioners that pull the rear bow up to the rear of the top. As my car was delivered without a headliner, I'm making this up as I go!
Any input on this latest would also be appreciated.

CJ

In general I have always install a headliner by starting at the front and working my way to the rear.
Look at the clips that the bows fit into, they act like ramps that should allow you to get the front edge of the headliner anchored under the "spikes" at the windshield gasket and then pull back each section to get tension on the fabric. The wire hooks on the last bow keeps tension on the whole "chain" of bows, once they rotate into position.

-It is important to make sure the new headliner is centered.
-The bows are color coded or numbered and can't be swapped around.
-The bow loops and side fabric is long and will need trimming.
-Use some kind of insulation between the metal roof and the headliner to keep condensation off the headliner. ( I usually spray glue pieces of the old headliner to the inside of the roof but you will have to find some other cloth or padding if you don't have the old liner)
Keep asking question...
DD

Is there any way to sound proof the roof before installing a new headliner?
When I go thru the carwash, it sounds like a hail storm! I was thinking of using some of that hot water heater wrap with some spray adhesive.

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Jute carpet padding works for sound deadener on the roof. I got some from the upholstery store and used the vinyl and trim spray adhesive to
glue it to the metal roof between the headliner bows.

The rear clamp looks like it has to be installed first. The material wraps around it in such a way that the quarter turn keepers can't be accessed after the headliner is installed. Is there a different way to install these clamps?
I didn't see the numbers on the bows. They are very rusty. I sanded the loose rust off of them and wiped them down. The one I installed at the rear is the longest of the bows. It looked like it was red at one time.
The front bow should be #1? I'll look at the bows again to see if there are any legible numbers stamped into them, and if I can tell what the colors were. Where are the numbers on the bows, and what is the correct order for the color coding?

CJ

It appears that I have two Brown Bows, the large red one, and a blue one.
Still confused about how to mount the rear fabric clamp when the headliner is over it...

I don't know if this info will help since each model is probably different but - The headliner I took out of a 1961 valiant 4 door had the 5 bows in order from front to back - black, orange, green, blue, green.
The shop manual I have is for a 63 dodge dart and the procedure for installing the headliner is :
1) start at the rear of the headlining, remove each bow from the old listing and install it in position in the new headlining. Before installing bows in new headlining trim the excess listing even with the edges of the headlining.
2) notch the front and rear ends to indicate the center of the headlining with small v shaped cuts
3) begin at rear of the car - install the bow tension springs
4) install bows at correct location - bows are of different lengths and must be installed correctly to prevent wrinkling. Install remaining bows, making sure to stretch the headlining evenly so the same amount of material hangs down on both sides.
5) apply cement to windshield header bar - wait for it to become tacky. Then stretch the headlining forward and over the cemented area, and onto the barbs on the windshield header. Make sure the first seam of the headliner is straight.
6) cut holes for visor retaining screws and pivots. Install visors before tucking in the corners of the headlining at the top of the windshield posts to prevent tearing. Install garnish moldings.
7) In most cases the listing is longer than necessary Cut the material at the ends to prevent wrinkling at the seams when it is tucked or cemented in place. Cut the listing from the end upto the clip. Use care to prevent cutting the listing too far up the bow
after listings are cut, start at the front and trim the headlinings so that 1/2 to 1 inch of material hangs down below the rear window opening.
9) Use a dull putty knife to tuck the first and second seam between the roof and side rail and retainer. Tuck the remaining material in place around the rear window and lower package shelf
10) alternate from side to side completing one section at a time making certain the seams are straight. Material should be kept free of wrinkles until all of the headlining is tucked in place between the roof and the retainer.
11) install rear window glass, dome light, side and upper windshield moldings and sun visor.
12) install rear seat cushion

Wow, back to front, I need to give that a try to see if it speeds-up the process.
DD

The 63 shop manual does step 1 and 3 from back to front - But then just when you are used to that routine step 8 (the ) switched the direction
and goes front to back.

The procedure still was quite tedious when I put the headliner in my son's
dart.

My Valiant is missing the rear bow clip springs (they rusted away) Does anybody know a source for these? If not maybe bailing wire will work!