Watched the Slanters race at the Nats and twice at Monster Mopar, so when a '64 Dart 170 crossed my path, I figured, why fight it any longer ?? . I hope to run 13's on pump gas, with no over the top exotic machine work ( 13.99 will do ) I'm gonna try and build it on a strict budget ( not cheap though, cheap can be dangerous ) This one will join my "63 Dart 360 powered bracket car. my '65 Dart GT 4-speed street machine, my '66 Dart stroker small block Nostalgia Muscle Car, and my'67 500" big block Nostalgia Super Stock Dart. I've been surfing this board for a bit now and will make a prediction: We'll see a 32 car field in the next two years.............RICK:P

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Great! It will be easier than you think to get into the 13's.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Cool.... we need more "Slanted" racers.
Keep us posted on the project.
DD

Will do Doc. I finished stripping the car last weekend and took it to my favorite chassis builder for a roll bar and frame connectors. A local machine shop had an abandoned cast crank 225. 10/10 crank, +.030 block, R&R the rods with new pistons and rings. The head was surfaced and new Comp Cams springs, retainers, locks and a .464 cam. Oil pump, roller timing chain, oil pump and a complete set of Clevite bearings and a unopened Fel-pro gasket set. I'm short the balancer, valve cover and flexplate. Got it all for $800. Are the pushrods for a 170 the same length as a 225 ? My guess is no. I'll assume that the cast and forged balancers are different. Are there two different flexplates for cast vs. forged ? Any advice is most welcome. Thanks everyone! RICK

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Just confirm if there was weights on converters between cast and forged crank.If no weights added on converters for any type of cranks,then probably the same flywheel.Hope it'l help you.

_________________
It s about A F M J body

Cast and forged damper, flexplate, and converter are the same.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Many thanks there 'Zilla man. I've been collecting this and that. My deep thinking mechanical genius ( he races AMC's) wants to try a 600cfm Motorcraft 2bbl on a Super Six aluminum intake. It will take a homemade adaptor, but if it works we'll post up the do's and don'ts. On the Slant Six/Dart only stuff, I found a set of Mopar Performance headers, brand new, in the box, and confirmed with Centerline wheels that they still make 4" bolt pattern wheels. I've come up with an 8 3/4 and will go with stock axles and a Auburn mini spool, gearing depends on tire size and converter. Does anyone have a recommendation on a converter for a 904/999 T-flite? RICK

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

I like my 4000 stall speed Continental converter.
DD

Thank you Herr Doctor, do you by chance have a dealer, web link, or phone number for Continental? Also, did you get my E-mail about rod bolts too ? We were knocking apart a 360 in the shop on the table next to the 225 and for grins we started to measure the rod bolts from both motors. We measured, remeasured and remeasured again. Everything comes up the same. RICK

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

ARP used to list a set for the Slant. If not you can buy a 340 set and have spares.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Absolutely 'Zilla. As they used to say in a old TV show " I love it when a plan comes together......." The idea of having a set of high strength ARP rod bolts (P/N 144-6001) holding the rotating mass together is one less worry. RICK

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Moving VERY slowly on all four projects, but now that I got through my daughters wedding and little league is winding down I hope to get back to work in the shop. The short block is done, we're fooling with the head, and the parts collection is growing, although I don't have the roller back from the chassis builder yet. Plus I found a fiberglass hood from VFN Fiberglass in Indiana. I need some help/advice in two areas: One, I have the Mopar Performance slant six header (P4529471) made by JR Headers. Now I come to find out it's listed in some areas as 67 and later A-body. I see where Thropar stated in his Valiant build-up that it DID fit in a narrow A-body with a few "treaks" . But then he talks about using the Clifford setup. All I'll have left in the car will be the steering box and the torsion bar, but would like to know for sure this set of tubes will work in a 64 Dart. Two: Doug mentioned checking with Continental Converters for a high stall converter. Are these the same Continental folks out of Inglewood, CA ?? If so, I have there number. Thanks to everyone. RICK

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Yep, Continental Converters is in Inglewood, CA. I was very happy with work they did for me too.

My 64 Dart 225 would NOT fit the MP/JR 6X1 headers. Thropar is the only one I know who got them to fit in an early A. Clifford has the nice 6X2s, but might take a while to get.

Best of luck w/ the projects!

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Do note that Slants did use different dampers depending if the tranny was automatic or manual. At least this is how it is on the ones I've seen.

The automatic dampers have the center belt groove mounted on rubber. If your application has/had power steering or air conditioning then there was stamped steel pulleys bolted the the hub of the damper for those options.

On manual tranny slants they use a solid metal 3 groove (mabye 2 groove on some applications??) pulley mounted on rubber whether or not you have PS or AC. No stamped steel pulleys used on manual tranny slants.

Now what I do not know if if you can interchange those dampers or not.

Thanks everyone, please keep the ideas and advice coming. The hardest thing I'm dealing with is that the numbers stamped on the top front of the block were machined off, so I'm still trying to figure out if it's a 76-77 engine that according to the Mopar six cylinder book uses a different damper. I'm gonna look over the crank for a part number and see if that will tell us something. Thanks again. RICK okay I found a number on this crank : 4095246-7

_________________
If you can't be good, at least be colorful