I have -78 Aspen and it's tranny has been leaking quite a long time. Today I took it out and checked what's wrong there. The torgue converter's 'shaft' (that pipe) has a long break on it. How usual that is, is there anything to do for it , is there any stronger ones???

And, how do I recognize if it is lockup or non lockup converter?

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Sorry, my english is not very good

I was told by a transmission shop that the torque converter "pipe" and also the front clutch are the weak points on those transmissions. Yes, that "pipe" getting cracked/broken is somewhat common. You must replace the complete torque converter assembly.

To tell if your transmission is a lock-up or non-lockup -- Look at the smaller splined shaft on the front of the transmission where you pulled the torque converter off of. If the shaft has a deep hole drilled through the center (for oil flow) then you have a lock-up tranny.
If there is no hole drilled in the shaft (don't confuse this with a shallow pilot hole that may be in the shaft, a hole that goes no where) then you have a non-lockup tranny.

Thanks Craig.

So are all torque converter's as weak or is there any better one's?

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Sorry, my english is not very good

It is unusual to see a stock one split on a stock motor, though.

Get a TC with an "alloy" or 4340 or 4330 pump drive hub. That will hold up. Get them to radius the slots in the hub also. You can have a new alloy hub welded onto your TC, but it might be worth it to buy a new one.

I've split a few, but only on built motors, and only the non-alloy hubs.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou

After doing little research here in finland, it's very usual that these TC's are having those cracks. Maybe it due to cold winters. Anyway I found new one and hopely get it tomorrow. I also found few broken ones, which confirms that it is very usual with stock engine's.

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Now few weeks later with new TC There has been some vibration. Is it possible that i have done somenthing wrong?? Vibration has come stronger now. When I assembled TC to driveplate, there was only one position when all bolts fitted.

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Sorry, my english is not very good

Can you get it to vibrate in neutral by reving the engine with the car stopped? This will narrow it down to the engine/converter. Otherwise, start looking at the whole driveline, like u-joints and such.
It's possible you got a weighted converter from a 360. They were externally balanced, but I can't remember for sure if the weights were on the flexplate or the converter. Can anyone clarify this?

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

For a 360, the weights are on the converter.

This is not balanced converter. There is little vibration in neutral, when I slowly higher RPM. I also thought that it may come from U-joints. When driveline was out I greased U-joints.

I also replaced pinion seal on 7 1/4 and i'm not sure about tightening the nut. Manual says that first check torgue of rotating pinion shaft. The torgue was very low, so that it was impossible to at measure. I tried to tighten it same position that it was. What about if it is too tight?

Some topic there was that if lockup is going bad it can cause vibration. What that mean. I have rebuild lockup conventer. Is that kind of problem in TC or in tranny?

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Sorry, my english is not very good

The pinion has a crush sleeve to set bearing preload, so that torque is very important. However, problems there would probably make a noise, not just a vibration.
A slipping lockup can make a shudder when under load (climbing hills). This can result from a bad converter, or supply problems like pump or valve body leaks.
Is the vibration vehicle speed sensitive or load sensitive?

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

As stated, there is a disposable crush sleeve between 2 pinion bearings. Torque is critical for gear wear and alignment. You might even need to rebuild the whole thing, or at least check your wear pattern with some marking compound. I suggest you fix the rear before you move on to any other repairs.

The lock up action is a hydrolic funtion which can be adjusted by a spring in the transmission valve body. (I think that's what I've read) I think the change can be made while the transmission is still in the car, IF it's the problem.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

The vibration starts getting stronger when driving 45-50. Also when testing neutral, the vibration is very strong at ~1000 Rpm.

Is it possible that TC is not assembled correctly to the driveplate?? I was not able to put it to other position. Bolts fitted only in one position.

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Sorry, my english is not very good

After checking and testing more, everything seems to be assembled correctly and I'm quite a sure that problem is that TC. The vibration is quite strong with every gear while driving 1000-1800 Rpm.

If anyone has any ideas for more checking or somenthing else that may cause this problem let me know. I really wouldn't like to do everything twice if it is not necessary.

Also one thing, I have never noticed when lockup is contacting, not with this or old converter.

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Sorry, my english is not very good

If it is a stock replacement converter, the RPM's you describe having the most vibration is below the stall speed of the TC, which leads me to think the problem is the TC itself (defective).

Have you checked all of the flex plate bolts to see if they have backed out (did you use loc-tite when installing them?)

-S/6

Deja vu S/6 ??

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Sorry, my english is not very good