OK, so I'm pulling the manifold off the Dart and twist off the mating bolt thats between the carb and cyl head. Will an E-Z out do or is there another way? I got everything off intact but that

Um, the carb doesn't bolt to the cylinder head. Which bolt are you referring to?

Easy-outs rarely work, and when you break off the easy out you won't be able to drill it out.

My recommendation is to get a left-hand thread drill bit and drill out the bolt and hope that the force of the drill will unthread it.

I hate when that happens

An easy out is usually a waste of effort. I've found that drilling it out and trying to clean the hole up with a thread tap is the best use of my time. They make special coils that you can drill oversize, tap and install if necessary. Some of thos studs end in the water jacket, so if you drill it out, make sure you use some sealant on the new threads, so coolant doesn't gush out when re-assembled.

I've currently got 2 cyclinder heads with broken off studs, and it's a real pain.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Lets narrow down what actually broke. Are you talking about one of the 13 studs that are used to bolt the manifolds to the head, or one of the three bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together?

Is there anything left of the stud/bolt protruding? If there is, you can (1) try a pair of vise grips, or (2) weld a nut on the end of it and turn it out like a bolt (lots of penetrating lube and waiting either way)

If there is nothing left to grab ahold of or weld to, drilling it out is about the only viable option. Left-handed drill bits work wonders, as Reed has already suggested. Make sure to use a punch to make a well-centered dimple for the bit to start. Take your time with the drill, if the bit gets off-center, there is virtually no way to get it centered again.

Use an EZ-out only as a last resort. If it snaps off, you are basically stuck taking it to the machine shop, and even they don't like trying to drill through an EZ-out.

-S/6

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

Apologies for being so vague- it's the 3rd bolt holding the intake/exhaust together, the one situated between the carb and head on top of the intake. I used PB Blaster on everything and got all freed up but this one. It was severely weakened by 100k+ of heat etc. Just one of those things. I think I'll just drill and retap the holes.

Will a helicoil work in all that heat? For the record, I have never broken an extractor (knock on wood)

That one is usually a stud with a nut on top. So the nut stuck and twisted off the stud?

I understood your first post because it said... "twist off the mating bolt thats between the carb and cyl head" but it looks like others did not.

Sorry, I was mistaken, but I've got a broken one of those also. I try and have a broken one of everything just for good measure.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

"Rats..." I admire your calmness and cool-headedness in the aforementioned situation. Here's what I say when that happens (with regularity):

$%%^#$!!!!!!!! %&*(#@!)*&!!!!!!!!!!! #+!%@$^&*##!@!!!!!!! $*# of a #@*^%$ $%(#!#$ @^!(%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ain't cars fun?

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Well its in the machine shop. After breaking 2 drill bits and a tap (don't ask) they can deal with it. Gonna cost me $50 to get it cleaned up and helicoiled

Some things are worth letting the pros handle. After all, they have really col tools that most of us don't.

OK Igot it back all fixed. It has a 3/8" helicoil, so the intake will need enlarged.

Would stainless bolts work? Or not??


Its nice getting useful info here. Other sites would just say swap the exhaust for a 340.

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KenG

Stainless bolts will work fine -- you need to use anti-seize compound when installing them.

Craig- that centre/inboard inter-manifold attachment is a stud on later manifolds, a bolt on early manifolds.

i wouldnt use stainless
its to weak and really can gall in the threads
use a grade 5 or 8 steel bolt
stainless doesnt take heat or twist turn
just good if your in saltwater