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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 6:45 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 701
Location: Marion.Va
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I installed two lightweight springs in my elec.dist.but didnt add a loop to either of them.I remember Doc saying that this acts as one spring.
Should I pull one out and form a loop inthe end of one of them to help quicken the advance off idle??Thanks in advance(pun intended).
HyperValiant

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 7:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
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Two lightweight springs is usually not the optimal setup on the street.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
Two lightweight springs is usually not the optimal setup on the street.
For street driving, where you have a lot of RPM and engine load changes, a "dual spring" set-up, with one light and one heavy "looped" spring works best.

The trick is to set the loop size ans spring tensions to match your engine and driving style.

You want the light spring tight enough to return the weights to zero advance at your idle speed but loose enough to allow the mechanical advance to start "coming-in" right off you idle RPM.

Next you need to decide when and how much the heavy spring needs to slow down the advance. Knowing your engine RPM at highway speed is a good piece of information to help decide this "cut-in" point, that helps you select the size of the loop.
DD


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 Post subject: More please
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 9:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:27 am
Posts: 824
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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I currently run 2 light springs and I slotted the second light spring to grab at about 2/3 mechanical. It runs pretty well compared to before, but I also replaced the governer from a 15 to a 9, so there is a lot less travel and I can have lots more initial timing advance.

With the old governer, the heavy slotted spring was sized so that it had no effect at all!! I knew that anything I did to rectify this would make at least some improvement.

I need some additional testing equipment to really do this right.
Quote:
The trick is to set the loop size and spring tensions to match your engine and driving style
I'd really like to hear more about how to know when you've got it right or wrong. Great info so far! I've come a long way, but I'm sure I have a way to go.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 3:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
When using light springs and a short plate, one thing to watch out for is timing "flutter" at full advance. I have seen the weight "pegs" move up the slots so fast that they bounce off the ends of the slots and cause a high RPM miss or "popping".

The large loop "super stiff" factory springs do not give much additional advance, but they do give a few degrees, very slowly and can be set in a way to keep the weight pegs from ever hitting the ends of the govenor plate slots.

Every car / engine combo is different and it take a lot of "trial & error" work to maximize the distributor advance curve but once it's set, you can forget about it.
DD
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