OK I have the front discs, spindles, etc. from a '74 Valiant.
Now what? I have an idea of how to put it on. Here are my questions:
1. When ordering a front end rebuild kit, can I order a '74 or do I need some '74 and some '64?
2. What parts need to be "pressed" in? Can I take the parts somewhere and then install them?
3. What tools do I need for removal of old items?
4. Do I need a adjustable proportion valve or will a new '74 do?
5. Is it a waste of time to just bolt everything on and see what needs replacing?
Thanks a bunch for helping me out!

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

First things first...
Do you have a good repair manual? I would not even consider starting the project you are facing, until I got at least a Haynes Repair Manual for your car's body type. It was a great resource for the front suspension rebuild I did recently on a '74 Dart Sport for my son (my first time I might add).

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

OK.....That's great that you have those brake parts, but......Do you also have the matching upper control arms?

The UCA's are also required pieces in order to put late model brakes on an earlier model A-body.

Roger

Unless you recently rebuilt your suspension it would be stupid not to replace all the bushing, I did a disc brake conversion on a 73 Dart and replaced every bushing because I was there. Most places that would press out bushing do it for a very reasonable price(I had connections and got it done for five bucks, but you can expect to pay more , but still not a lot). I even replaced the upper control arm bushings despite not actually having to take them out for the swap(73 UCA are the same as disc brake UCA). And you would want to get a 74 front end rebuild supension kit since basically you will be giving yourself a 74 front end. The proportioning valve from a 74 should work, only get the proportioning valve if you find you're not happy with the 74s.

Oh, and the manual is very necessary, I hate my haynes manual but even so without it I'm fairly sure I wouln't have been able to do the suspension rebuild/swap. You might also take this time to seriousely think about upgraded torsion bars, bigger ones will help handling a ton(I'm using .99, but most people for street seem to prefer .86-.92)

-Shivadart

etc includes a master cylinder for disc brakes, right? When you rebuild the front end after (or during) the disc conversion you would use the 74 parts
except the strut rod bushings and LCA bushing would still be 64. And those parts are the same
for 62 to 76 ! So you use all 74 parts for a disc brake front end! If you rebuild the entire front end the LCA bushing and the UCA bushings on each side need to
be pressed in. Sometimes a bench vise is enough - but on my LCAs I almost broke my vise and
then used an arbor press to finish the job. Removal of the LCA bushing is also easier with a
press. It will save you quite abit of time if you have someone else remove and replace all the
UCA and LCA bushings. Very handy special tools for this job are a ball joint socket to replace the upper ball joint
in the 74 UCA. Also a tierod end splitter of the type that preserves the grease boots and
can fit in the space to split both the tie rods and the ball joints. A 74 shop manual will be
a big help. Either should be fine. Used brake and suspension parts are a big risk to life, limb and vehicle if they
are in bad shape. Check everything and make sure is is in sound condition and installed
correctly. Rebuild all used calipers and master cylinders, Replace all flexible brake
lines with new, get the rotors turned, check all suspension parts and if in doubt replace
with new. I recommend the do it right plan instead of the do it again plan.

Thanks for the help. I do have the UCA's. I have a '67 Dart shop manual. Do I need a '74 manual also?
When you say rebuild the calipers, you mean buy rebuilt?

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

The "sliding style" calipers from the '76 Duster disc brakes I swapped were easy to rebuild. I bought new seals at O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $2.29 each.
If you have a repair manual, it will show you how to do it. One thing you need to look for is whether the caliper's piston is rusty. Mine had a small amount, about the size of a pencil eraser, so I used some very fine sandpaper to polish it out. You may also need to hone the cylinder, if it has any surface rust. If it is pitted, I would buy another one. The book shows how to use an air compressor to pop out the pistons, but beware, you can lose a finger if you aren't careful.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Rebuilt calipers and brand new rotors, pads and hoses will make the job simpler and should be safe as well

Yes I said rebuild them - but buying them remanufactured is good also.
The point was NOT to trust a used caliper because the risk is too great.

The 74 manual I recommend for the disc brake section - The 67 manual will have a disc brake section but it will be regarding the Kelsey Hayes
setup used from 66 to 72. These are not quite the same, so a 74 manual
should give procedures and specs for the sliding caliper discs used on the
73-76 cars