Hey, guys. I bought a 250 HP plate system, with a half full tank, at the Don Garlits show, for $100. Think the stock pistons will last more then 1 pass?
Going to try and build the car for no more than $800. Including the purchase of the car. Just finished the short block today.

66 Valiant $100.00
set of V-8 headers in the trunk sold - $50.00
Rings 9.95
Main bearings 25.00
Rod bearings set 4.25
Cam bearings set 5.50
Timing set Blue Racer 9.95
Gasket Set 24.95
New Crane cam 460 lift 290* dur no cost, traded for a used head
Lifters 18.00
Oil pump 9.95
Headers clifford shorty with pipes 100.00
Offie intake 65.00
Edelbrock 500 50.00
Nitrous system 100.00
New recon head 99.95
Total so far $572.50

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Wish you were closer so I could observe the punishment. By the way do you still make your custom manifolds? I found & old Hot Rod magazine(1963?) that did the very same thing to it's 1 bbl. Cool!!

I only did that one manifold, and that was in 1977. I had been running in "Stock Eliminator" and nhra "penciled" me out of competion. I had no idea how the engine would respond to hopups, so sisnn't want to spend much money. So I just bought a cam from a speed shop at their cost, less the deposit someone else paid and didn't pickup the cam. Milled a spare head .100 and made the manifold.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

You know..I consider myself somewhat of a cheapskate,,,,but once in a while its nice to meet an expert...please continue.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Wow, those are damn good prices, where do you shop? Ebay?

Just about everything came from E-bay, swap meets, or forums like this and .com. I'm trying to show, that it is possible to build a fun car, without breaking the bank. That anyone with the ability to do the work themself, and shoping for parts can do it. So far the only thing that would have to be farmed out, is installing the cam bearings. I have a tool to do that myself. Ridge reamer, ring groove cleaner, cyl hone, ring compressor, are all available at Autozone, for free, with a refundable deposit. Washed all the engine parts, including the block, with "purple power".

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Hey Charrlie,
You need to recruit some high school kids to look over your shoulder while you're doing that stuff. They are the next generation of Slant 6 racers and they are being tempted to join the dark side. May the force be with you my friend.
Besides, you can only drive one at a time. With your four cars and three eager kids you could run a regional program right there at home. Just make sure to come up to Silver Dollar in Reynolds once in awhile. I'll be back down there someday. And I'd be willing to bet that Matt with the brown primered Duster would be willing to give you a re-match.

Take Care and please tell Peg hello for me.

Rob

Rob, good to hear from you. Hope every thing is going well, and have a good holiday. I have been trying to recruit some help, for my projects, but no luck so far. Trying to do the 66 Val project, with a N/A engine to start. Would like to be in the 15's. Then after some base line, tuning runs, try the plate NOS system. Need to pull the engine from the 66 Cuda, and freshen it up. Then put it in the 65 Valiant, with the turbo. Then finish another motor for the Cuda with the fogger system. Don't have any plans, yet, for the 64 Valiant , with the glass nose, I'm buying from Will Burns. I will decide, after I get it here in the spring. Planning on Reynolds, again this memorial day weekend. Keep in touch. Peg says, "stay safe."

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Keep it out of detonation and I think it will last for a while Charlie.

Mike has a second plate he's going to sell. I am seriously considering it for high gear add-on to my present plate. Mike thinks I'm an idiot. He's probably not the only one.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

If I was closer, I'd help.

This week or the next I have to replace the cracked 225 in my 66 Valiant. I can r&r the engine, but having never rebuild one, I can't take a chance to learn by my mistakes.

dna

Just came in from the shop. Got the cam degreed in. It fell in at 1* advanced at 106 degrees, without haveing to adjust it. Measured my deck hight and cc'ed the head. have to run the numbers, and see what my compression ratio is. Set the head on the block, with checking valve springs, to check valve to piston clearence, and see if I have to cut down the guides, for retainer clearance. Will do that over the weekend. Still need to cut the spring seats for dual springs.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Deck hight is .170-.173, combustion chambers vary from 53 to 56 cc's. Head gasket is the steel shim piece at .021.
This brings the CR in at 8.2 to 8.5

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Well, it looks like the $800 budget is going to take a hit. I completed the cylinder head, but ran into a glitch. This is something novice engine builders most times over look. It has been awhile since I built an engine from scratch, rather then a refresh, and I fell victim, also. A cam needs a matching valve train. My freebe Crane cam, needed dual valve springs. I had planned on using 340 springs and retainers, but they were nowhere near enough tension. I wound up using Mopar performance springs, #P3412068, and retainers #P4529823. Had them in stock, but cost was $134.64.That brings the total to $707.14. Along with this, I had to machine the spring seats for the dual springs. I had the tool on hand, but otherwise this would require the purchase of the tool from Comp cams for $64.68, cutter and arbor, or have a machine shop do the job. I did not cut the valve guides, as there was no interferance, with the retainers at max lift, and I used stock seals, cut down with a sissors, to fit inside the spring. The cutter to cut the guides is $45.99.
The engine is now assembled, on the stand with the intake and headers on for a trial fit.
If someone could post a couple of pictures, of the car and engine, for me, I will e-mail them.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

the motor


the car

Got some work done on the car in the last week. Painted the floors with "Ospho", and top coated them with anti rust paint. Pulled the old engine, today, pressure washed the engine compartment, and painted it with a couple of rattle cans. Going to start installing the PST front end kit, shortly.
Have a delemma. Wanted to build the car on the cheap. I am trying to get it done, and bring it to the Georgia slant six race. The problem, "I want to go quick". Was goining to leave the stock converter and rear, and then change them later, and document the difference. Now I'm considering putting them in right away. I have them on hand. A 9 inch 3,000 rpm stall, and a 3.91 SG, 7 1/4 rear. What do you folks think?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225