What are your preferences, and why?

Id like to upgrade my 7&1/4" with either one and I was thinking of the 3/4" frontloader until I read on and saw the rush for the 1/4". Why?

Also, Id like to keep the 5x4 bolt pattern so I can keep the rare 340 rims.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

If you want to keep your small bolt pattern then you need to go with an 8 3/4. All 8 3/4" A-body rears came with SBP and I believe all 8 1/4" rears came with BBP

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If you can find an A body 8 3/4" cheap grab it, they are getting harder to find. If your buying it from someone that knows what they have and they want a pretty penny for it, then it may be cheaper to find a more common b/e/truck/van body one and shorten it.

shortening a rear is a very expensive option. It would be much cheaper to have 8 1/4 axles and drums drilled for SBP

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Right, shortening is expensive, but compared to finding an A body 8 3/4" it may be a bargin. I'd suggest spend some time hunting around because you can find bargins out there. You may have to buy the hosuing and center section seperately. Imo, its worth bargin hunting to get an 8 3/4".

You may want to also think about the ford rear swaps as well but I believe those were all BBP. Carrying two spares may not be such a bad thing if it can save you significant money.

well the 3/4" seems like the logical choice for me, but still Im curious, why the preference for the 1/4"? Are they not more rare/expensive?

What benefits do they offer?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

70 Val. It is not as easy as just drilling the large bolt pattern axels for small bolt pattern. The center pilot of the axel is larger on the 4 1/2 inch axels, and most small pattern wheels will not fit. Some aftermarket SBP wheels have a larger center hole and MIGHT work.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

couldnt you just turn it down on a lathe, or is there not enough material there?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Charlie_S that is a great point, I had not though of that.
I found an A-body 8 3/4" rear at the pittsburgh /6 race complete drum to drum, 3.23 suregrip for $250. Deals are out there, mainly from guys with mopar rears laying around with no mopar to put them in.
Good luck in your search!

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$250 is a steal. I had to buy a whole parts car (340 duster w/o engine & tranny) to get an A body 8 3/4".

Look up DoctorDiff on www.moparts.com board, he does custom housings and such.

The 8 3/4 is the better rearend and the "way to go" if you can find one for a reasonable amount of money. The main advantages are the excellent taper-roller axle bearings and the ability to swap gear ratios fast and easy. I have also seen info that states that the 8 3/4 has less mechanical drag then other rears of the same general ring gear size.

Advantages to the 8 1/4 is that they are more common these days and generally cheaper. These all have the LBP that many owners are looking to swap over to. It is a strong unit but uses ball bearing type axle bearings.
DD

Actually the 8 1/4" axle uses roller bearings and they ride directly on the axle. Not a "sealed" bearing like the 8 3/4" axle.

Isn't the 8 1/4" also a bit lighter?

8.25" and 8.75" are nearly the same weight. 8.75" is only about 5-15 lbs heavier.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Good point but the 8 1/4's straight roller bearing but this is still a "point of contact" loading on the bearing "rollers". (same as a ball bearing)
The taper roller bearing distributes the load up and down the bearing rollers and has better end play and preload adjustability, the stronger set-up for sure.

So... what do you do to repair the 8 1/4's axle shafts once the axle bearing area gets worn or damaged? Is there a repair kit available?
DD
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