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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 11:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
Posts: 2378
Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
I think I have seen a repair bearing available that offsets the rollers to a new "journal" surface on the axle... Or did I dream that up?? Anyway, I'd probably just swap in another axle.

D/W

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 11:41 am 
Yes, the repair bearings are listed in both the CR/SKF and National bearing catalogs. They are a sealed type bearing (sealed outside only so they can still get lubed) and are twice as wide as the original would be (takes up the bearing space as well as the seal space) and the rollers ride on the axle where the seal originally rides.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
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Location: Everett, WA
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So... what do you do to repair the 8 1/4's axle shafts once the axle bearing area gets worn or damaged? Is there a repair kit available?
DD
[/i]
Yeah, there is a "repair kit". But how do you if the "repair kit" will work when it is one size fits all. The only 100%, guranted fix is to replace to axle.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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So... what do you do to repair the 8 1/4's axle shafts once the axle bearing area gets worn or damaged? Is there a repair kit available?
DD
[/i]
Doc, I would take the worn shafts to a machine shop and have the worn surface spray welded and reground. some shops call this "rechroming"

there are different grades of steel you can use to build the area back up, and although not perfect the bond is plenty strong. It is a very common practice in component overhaul, at least in my industry. hydraulic cylinders, crankshafts, steering boxes, hydraulic pumps etc. Dont know how itd price out but it works.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2003 11:49 am
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there is no reason to have an 8.75 behind a /6 for a daily driver or even a mild strip car. ~ unless you change gear ratios a lot and have spare chunks with different gears laying around.

fact is an 8.25 rear is strong enough to stand up to a 440, and the only dissadvantage it has is that it is not a "drop out" gear set.

i just built an 8.75 rear for my duster (340 stroker in the works). the rear alone cost me $3000, disc to disc, new springs and hangers. i had doctordiff of moparts do the 489 case, and his prices are great.

but for the $300-$500 it would cost you to get a BOLT IN and drive 8.25 rear, i would go that route. plus all 8.25 a body rears have the 10X2.5 drums and will accpet larger drums from other mopar rears with the large bolt pattern. 8.75 rears came stock with the junky 10X1.75 drums.


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