OK, I have had enough with trying to keep the holly in tune. I am ordering a rons flying toilet with alcohol injection. Is the only draw back to running alcohol have to do with moisture in the oil so you have to change real regular. I know Dale seems to like it in his car. How about it Ron Hamby do you have any words to the wise. Since I am changing over from foot braking this year I thought I might as well go all out.

Change the oil a lot and always drain any remaining fuel out of the system before you let the car sit.
DD

Norm,
There are several problems that cause oil 'milking' when using 'drinkin gas' and a Ron's Flying Toilet.
A big one is the tune up has to be overly rich at idle and low speed because there isn't an accelerator pump, the over rich condition is the acc pump.
Another is warm up. Alcohol cools the motor and tends to condense water vapor inside the motor leading to 'milking' the oil.
There are tips to reduce this problem. Many use a 1/4 turn ball valve with plastic tubing plumbed into the intake, when turned on, it is a vacumm leak which helps build heat quicker, reducing time vapor can condense. Keeping the temp up to boil the water out also helps.
Contact James Monroe in LA. He is a Ron's dealer and racer that will give tech support for the products he sells. He has his phone with him when he is racing so you can call him most any time, even when you are at the track.
I think he has a device that runs the car on gas while warming up and motoring up to the lanes and back the return road, only on the burn out and run is alcohol needed. Less alky used means less oil 'milking'. If you haven't ordered yet, call James, all the feedback I've read on the net about him is positive and no negative comments.

Cecil

Norm,
Here is James Monroe's web site.
http://www.killerrons.com/
The gas device I spoke of is called Primer Plus.

Cecil

Cecil is dead on about the milking problem. I have been around quite a few Flying toilet set-ups and they seem to be very easy to tune. Alcohol is very forgiving about a rich condition and will still make good power. I know guys who have set it up to be "right" during the summer months and live with it being on the rich side in the cooler months. To re-jet is not a big deal either. Some use propane to start the car when it gets colder. They use one of the hand held torches and just leak the propane into the intake as they try to crank it. Once the motor is warm they seem to not have any problems starting it.
You can expect to be more consistent as well. If the car varies a .2 over the course of a race you can expect it to be half that on alcohol.

It will not help you cut a light or let up on the top end!

I have also seen them take the oil home and put it on the stove and warm it to the point where the H2O starts to evaporate out. They leave it this way until the oil loses the milky look and then re-use the oil. They do not heat it until it boils or start to degrade!

Check out http://www.ronsfuel.com/ for more info.

EFI does not have the problems that the mechanical injection does, something like Lous Megasquirt would not milk the oil up because you could lean out idle and low rpms but still keep it rich in the higher rpms. We ran all year on the same oil with no milking and the oil still looked like new when it came out.

Tom

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Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

TOM DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST TO CHANGE OVER TO EFI LIKE LOU RUNS. AND WHERE OR IF I CAN ORDER THE PARTS FOR THIS CONVERSION.

Lou could answer your question better than I. I emailed him and ask to check this thread out and give you a reply.

Tom

here is a few link to look at...
http://www.megasquirt.info/

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

Norm and Tom,

I have put together two Megasquirt-driven EFI systems, and one has been running well for a while (TB on my '64 Dart). The other is waiting to be installed on my '68 Dart driver.

I have about $800-900 in each system using mostly new parts, some of my own machining, and a few junkyard/used parts.

For alcohol, you'll need big injectors, so that'll cost a bit more. If you get a maniflold/throttle valve set up by a shop, figure you'll be around $2k when you're done.

For custom set ups, carbs can be a pain, especially on the Slant where all the inexpensive aftermarket stuff is tuned for V8s. I plan to have all my vehicles EFIed in the next year or two.

Hope this helps,

Lou

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