I guess I'll pull the oil pump and pickup tube. Now, I understand that in order to get it all off I have to remove the through bolt of the motor mount and hoist the engine up on that side as high as I can get it. Would it be even better to remove the through bolts from both motor mounts and that way I should be able to lift the engine even higher? The oil pump and pickup tube are separate, correct? Any hints, suggestions, etc., before I get ready to do this?

Thanks everyone.

dave

Remove the fan shroud. Also, you will have to take the pan off to access the pickup.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

DW, doesn't the engine have to be pulled to get the oil pan off because of the K-frame?

No. There are a bunch of related and detailed posts on this subject. Do a little search, if you come up short, I will try to dig up links for them later.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Well, I've been searching and can't really find any direction for this. Mine is a 74 Scamp that currently has a 225 in it. About the only thing I found was a reference to removing the center link to get the oil pan off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dave

I have the same car but I completely removed my engine so I'm not in the same boat. Why the pickup tube anyways? How do you know there is no pressure? I haven't read all your posts but on my car I installed a pressure gauge and I get close to 50 psi and my red light on the dash is on solid because my sender is crap. Is it possible your sending unit has crapped out or the wire to the light isn't working? If the pump is in there and the cam is turning and the car is running it's pretty hard not to get any pressure. Also there isn't a whole lot of oil visible with valve cover off. Not like a Chevy or Ford hydraulic lifter engine. The oil oozes through the rockers where a Chevy comes squirting out all over the place.

If you really suspect the pump replace it first. I'll look tonight at my car to see if you can get the pan out with the engine in place.

The center link can be removed by pulling ball joints.

even if you do get the pan off it's gonna be tough to get it back in right without it leaking. The 4 piece gasket is a bear even with the engine on a stand upside down.

I haven't read all your posts so sorry if you covered my questions.

1) Unfasten fan shroud from radiator, push back out of way

2) Unfasten left motor mount (unfastening right may help, too)

3) Lower or remove steering centerlink - There are a number of ways to do this, but the simplest and least invasive is to remove the thru-bolt from the idler arm where it attaches to the crossmember and remove the Pitman arm from the steering box using the proper puller which is inexpensive @ Idiot Auto Partz or often rentable. If you choose this method, push the aft ends of the front tires together to get slack in the centerlink and lower it out of the way.

4) Raise motor slightly. Prescribed method is a crane or a jack and piece of wood under the trans. Not recommended, but if you are very very careful and use a large block of wood to spread the load, you can raise it by jack under the front pulley(s). Do not place any weight on the damper ring under any circumstances. Once the motor is lifted, secure it in the raised position. I use scrap wooden blocks between the insulator(s) (mount) and frame.

5) Remove pan. Once it is loose and you can see the crankshaft, rotate the crank so that the front counterweights are up in the block. This is very important and will save lots of swearing.

6) This job is no fun. You have been advised. Oil pump is similar. Challenge with pump R&R in car is manipulating the height and tilt of the engine to allow the pump driveshaft enough room to free it from between the block and crossmember.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

I have replaced 2 pumps with the engine still in the car. This was in a 72 Swinger. What I found that helped some was to remove both motor mount bolts and the upper radiator hose and jack the engine up a bit. I pulled the alternator out of the way and placed one of those Small scissor type jacks (that aren't good for much of anything else) between the frame rail and the alternator bracket. This allowed me to easily push and hold the engine up and over to the drivers side to get the pump out. This engine also had the 6X1 MP headers on it and they were not removed to get this done. It's not a fun job but I didn't think it was as hard as it could of been.

Good luck,

Rick

Thanks very much for all your replies. Looks like I have a job a head of me, but nothing I can't manage with advice and help from you all. Wish me luck!

dave

Good One!

I love those old (well made USA) scissors jacks for those very kinds of reasons, plus they are good to have out on the road or at the track with you without lugging around a hydraulic floor jack.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Hmmmm. Sounds like I may have to invest in one of those. Couldn't hurt.

dave

I know a guy that once changed a /6 crankshaft with the motor still in the car. Once

-in Fairbanks Alaska, in a parking lot. During wintertime. Dude is nutz.


Good luck with that oil pump.

Dennis
A good scissor jack is a must-have. I have ofter pondered mounting a scissor into my engine hoist so I can make it less troublesome to install motors

Actually, I like the scissor jacks as well. They can be fit into tight quarters and they don't care what position they are in. Plus they always work. They are probably a $2 item or maybe even free if you ask at your local junk yard.

Rick