Can a squeak come from the torsion bar itself, or only the bushings? When rebuilding my front end I used OEM bushings directly from the dealer, so I'm assuming they are rubber. That was about 6 or so years ago, so I don't think its time for them to wear just yet.

I've been told that the bar itself can make a squeak, like a worn coil spring. This seems doubtful, but I thought I'd ask for opinions. Should I lube up the bushings or just replace them once more?

I don't think it's very likely a solid metal bar would squeak - the anchor points maybe, but not very likely. A squeak is caused by one thing rubbing on another thing. Yeah, stock Chrysler front ends aren't known for their longevity. I'd inspect the rubber, and if it still looks good and isn't shucking chunks of it out, I'd just saturate it with some silicone or WD40. Probably got a little moisture in a bushing.

I smell another "poly" debate coming on...

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Why did Chrysler use torsion bars instead of coil springs. Did it make them handle better or something?

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Chryslers will outhandle most Ford and GM products from the '60s, but torsion bars are only one part of the equation. There are quire a few other factors, particularly the overall geometry. But here's the basic pros and cons of torsion bars:

1. Torsion bars have low unsprung weight, which improves handling on rough roads.
2. Torsion bars allow adjusting the ride height easily. It's just another alignment parameter on Mopars.
3. The weight of a torsion bar suspension is carried lower in the chassis than a coil spring suspension.
4. Torsion bars transmit their vibration to a point pretty much directly under the front seat - which is why you don't see them in most cars today.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I was looking under the car today on an unrelated matter... and something had caught my eye. The right side, the one squeaking, the torsion bar (when front is jacked up) has an arc to it I mean, instead of the bar coming straight out of the frame into the control arm, it makes a sort of gentle U shape (with opening towards the ground). Thats not normal, is it?

When I had it aligned years ago the guy said to get ride height level he had to really crank up one of the bars. The adjustment screw has probably 1/2" of exposed threads if that, where the left side has 2" (just guessing, didn't measure). So it deffinately looks like this bar is fatigued. I wonder if that much load on the torsion bar is working the bushing in excess causing it to squeak?

Sounds plausible. Are you sure your squeak's coming from the lower bushing? How are the control arm anchor pins in the "K" member? Those like to break out the welds with great frequency.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

You could also need grease in the rear ancher points, under the ballon seals. It could also be your strut rod bushings, another source of squeeking noises.

Thanks for the advice, I'll have another looksee when I get under there and pull the bars out. I really don't know exactly where the squeak is but I was just assuming its the torsion bar because of how far it needed to be adjusted.

Orderd a new set of bars from summit - gotta love it, they are in reno and I'm in northern CA, 3 hours car drive. So overnight shipping takes same time as ground shipping.

Pulled out the bars today. With no bars in, I imitated the car bouncing by prying up and down on the spot of the lever where the height adjustment screw is.

Heard the same noise. I tried spraying lube on the bushing, soaking it... and prying up and down on the piece once more but it only got minorly better. I'm starting to wonder if the replacment bushings were polly or what.

Both sides are doing it, but the right side is much louder then the left. The right was the side the alignment guy had to really crank up the screw to get the car level.

Now I'm wondering if I should pull the control arm while I'm down there and put in a new bushing or try some pb-blaster instead of wd40.

On that note, the lca bushings were originally rubber, right? According to this, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... wordSearch the moog replacment is poly, but it says its OEM quality. That tells me the original was poly. What say you?