i have a 1969 dart gt 2 door with drums will a 1976 valiant 4 door
disk breaks swap straightht out? i know that a 2 door will is there any
difference in a 2 door and a 4 door k member also is there any
difference between a v8 front end and a slant 6 front end

That will work just fine.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sandy's answer is not quite as complete as you might have wanted. Yes, the '76 Valiant discs will swap onto your '69 Dart, but you'll need to swap more than the brakes. You'll need the brakes, spindle/knuckles and (if I recall correctly) the lower control arms. Also be aware that this will give you a 4½" bolt circle on the front wheels, and if you leave your rear brakes as they are they'll still have a 4" bolt circle, so you'd need to carry two spare wheel/tire assemblies unless you also swap the rear brakes.

There is no difference between 2-door and 4-door K-members, but the '67-'72 V8 and Slant-6 K-members are different from one another, and the '73-'76 K-members are different (some say preferable due to the spool-type engine mounts).

What do you mean when you ask if there's a difference between a V8 front end and a \6 front end?

You dont need to swap the lower arms.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

you have to swap uppers NOT lowers. and to deal with the rear bolt pattern just swap rears with the 76 as well

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Thanks, I was pretty sure I'd mixed up my control arm info.

thank's guy's and what i meant by is there a different in the front end was does the factory v8 car have a heaver front end then a slant 6

Well, yes, the torsion bars (= front springs) were typically larger/heavier-duty items on the V8 cars. But no, the main components were all the same.

From my understanding the t-bars are the same for a \6 and base 318 on the '76. If the car has A/C or a 360 then you get bigger T-bars.

H'mm. That doesn't match my info for cars through '74, but it's conceivable they were consolidating parts by '76.

The F-bodies all had the same (transverse) torsion bars regardless of engine, but at least through '74, A-body bars differed by engine and optional equipment.

Newf: I have done this swap. I used a 76 Valiant Brougham 4 dr as a parts car. If you can get access to the whole car this will be easier. It doesnt matter whether the donor car is a 4 door or a V8. From the donor car get everything between the lower balljoint and the upper control arm mounts. You will need the upper control arm (get new bushings and cam bolts), spindle, rotor, caliper and brake hoses. While you are at it get the whole rear axle and brake hose. You will also need the master cylinder and proportioning valve. The 76 likely has power brakes. For a reasonable price you can buy a manual master cylinder (at NAPA). This can be easier to swap than the whole booster unit if your 69 has manual brakes.

You need to swap the whole rear to get the bolt pattern on the rear to match the front. If the rear is a 7.25 on both you can swap your 69 gears into the 76 housing. You cannot just swap axles from the 76 housing into the 69. The 76 rear will have drum brakes to match the discs on the front. Think about grabbing the wheels off the 76 or finding some wheels to match the larger bolt pattern.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Good advice. Don't feel you have to have a booster just 'cause you're going to disc brakes. With a thoughtfully-selected master cylinder, the pedal feel and tractability of a nonboosted disc setup is excellent, better than most boosted setups.

In the hydraulic system alone, there are many variables that affect the performance, feel and balance of the system. Premature rear-wheel lockup was a very common complaint in A-bodies equipped with disc brakes when they were new enough to have magazine articles written about them, and in the years since. The factory proportioning valve on the A-bodies wasn't particularly well thought out.

Nowtimes, the usual fix prescribed is an adjustable proportioning valve that lets you adjust the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear brakes as a percentage of that applied to the fronts. This works, but a more satisfactory fix is available if you're running 10" rear drums rather than 9" units. One of the components that went into the factory's police-service brake package was smaller-bore rear wheel brake cylinders. These reduce the mechanical advantage of the master cylinder over the rear brakes while leaving the fronts untouched, and the results is better stopping and easier system modulation than with large/standard-bore rear wheel cylinders and an adjustable prop valve. The wheel cylinders are common in physical design to 10", 11" and 12" disc brakes and are available in four different bore sizes, but 9" brakes use a different cylinder and as far as I know there's only one bore available. I'll try and dig up the P/Ns for the different rear wheel cylinders.

Master cylinder bore is super important. The larger the bore, the shorter the pedal stroke, and the harder you'll have to push on the pedal. The smaller the bore, the longer the pedal stroke, and the less effort you'll have to apply to the pedal. For the 4-piston disc brakes (up to '72, not the kind you're looking at), I find a 1" bore master cylinder with no booster gives excellent pedal feel and travel. Since I haven't run the single-piston disc brakes you're looking at (especially not the large-piston '76 versions), I can't comment directly on what might work best with those.