Heres my scenerio:
1962 Lancer GT 225 aluminum block freshly rebuilt 0 miles. Head milled -.06
Edelbrock 500 carb, Offy 4 barrel aluminum intake, dutra duals for exhuast.
Now I want to work on the ignition system can you guys point me in the right direction? I see the pertronix systems on Ebay sell for $65.00 and the coil another $30.00. What about the wires? What kind/size do I need? Also is there some kind of electronic box I need to buy with this system or not. I can still use my stock distributor right!

I installed the kit in my 71 truck 7 yrs ago. Haven't touched it since except for a cap. I used the stock coil, mine is not a performance motor, to me, the only issue I have with the whole thing is getting a new rotor. The one that came with mine cannot be bought at an auto parts store, or at least I haven't been able to yet. Worth it? Yeah. No you do not need any extra boxes, and whatever wires you need for you're set up. Mine is all stock. It just replaces the points with a reluctor and pickup.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

Most people who put in the Pertronix kit seem to get acceptable reliability from it. here's one thing that stops me from using it: If something does fail, it doesn't use standard parts. You have to get repair parts from Pertronix, you can't just walk into a parts store or junkyard and get what you need. That's why I tend to use a regular Chrysler electronic ignition distributor and either a regular Chrysler box or (easier, better and more compact) a regular GM HEI module.

But yeah, if for some reason you want to keep the distributor you have now (maybe you've got your advance curves very carefully dialled in and don't want to have to do it again?), a kit like the Pertronix would allow you to do so.

Keep the points somewhere in the car, just in case.

Yeah, that'll get you going again, but who needs the hassle of trying to install and gap points on the hard-to-reach \6 distributor...by the side of the road, with a hot engine, maybe after dark or in a snowstorm, etc. Pfft. To my mind, much better to toss a spare (1½" × 3") HEI module in the glovebox. In the unlikely event that the module fails, two easy-to-reach screws and four plug-in wires gets you back on the road in about 2 minutes.

Dan, is there a picture "how to" on using the HEI, or can you explain this? It sounds much better. Kit form or self made? I am almost lost when it comes to electric.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

the hei swap is simple, but it seems most info on it was on .com
I have to find the wiring notes I had.
it is 4 wires, and a hei ignition module...

Very very easy.

You need a standard Chrysler electronic distributor, a standard HEI module (pick a quality unit such as NAPA Echlin TP-45, about $36), an aluminum plate about ¼" × 3" × 2", and some wire.

The module has two holes in it. Mark these onto the aluminum plate and drill 'em. The module comes with a little squeeze packet of heat conductive silicone goo; squeeze this onto the bottom of the module and then mount the module-on-plate to the RH inner fender.

Wiring info is here. The author says you have to have the GM connector, but that's not true. All you have to do is make sure you use the correct-size female spade terminals (three of the four terminals on the module are ¼", the fourth is 3/16".)

Bypass the ballast resistor (connect the two wires to each other instead of plugging them onto the resistor), put in an MSD Blaster coil, regap your spark plugs to 0.045", and off you go.

Original question:Pertronix worth the money?

Every penny.
Many on these boards,including myself,swear by them.I installed mine over 2yrs ago and havent touched it since.Spot on all the way around.

JZ

I haven't seen one of these in awhile, but I used to encounter them in wrecking yards every now and then.

I put one in FURTHER probably 6 or 7 years ago and haven't had any trouble from it.
The installation couldn't be easier, either.
Pop the cap, take out the points, install the reluctor in the same spot, run 2 wires out of the primary wire hole in the dizzy to the coil, put the magnet collar on the rotor, and re-install the cap.
I used the Accel SuperStock coil.
You have to open the spark plug gap to get the full effect of an electronic ignition. I run .045.
The only problem I've run into is finding a new rotor that works with the magnet collar. The last time I bought a new cap&rotor, the rotor was a smaller design so the collar didn't fit. I just cleaned up the old one and re-used it. Works great.
Best bolt-on bang-for-buck in my book.

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aed
/6>V8

Hey Ed,I havent had to replace my rotor yet.I asked the guy about that when I purchased it and if I remember right the rotor you use is from a later model electronic ign distributor.

JZ

Thanks, JZ!
I'll keep that in mind.

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aed
/6>V8

the rotor i've used was a typical stock replacement rotor for an '87 pickup with a slant six and lean burn distributor. it happened to have the correct width to fit in the Ignitors' trigger collar all nice and snug.

pick one up all day at your nearby Advanced Auto. don't know the part number off the top of my head though