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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 10:37 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Hi guys,

I just got my engine and transmission home, and its currently sitting on the ground waiting for me to separate it. I have a budget engine stand that someone gave me. It has 4 moveable studs that you can bolt on to engine itself. Unforunately, there are no bolts that come with this. To avoid running back and forth to the hardware store with tons of different size bolts, what size bolts do I need to put my engine up on the stand? I assume that it bolts in to where the transmission currently is?

Since the engine is a 30 min drive away and the hardware store not close by the engine, I was trying to save myself some hassle and running around.

Thanks

MJ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 605
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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It has been a while, but IIRC I used three 3/8" x 6" long UNC bolts, and one 9/16" x 5-1/2" long UNC bolt, all grade 8. The 3/8" bolts required a nut, the 9/16" bolt threaded into the block. My slant was on the stand for over 6 months with no problems, though the long engine really 'sagged' the upright on my stand. :shock:

I have since seen another way of mounting the engine, and it appeared four of the same sized bolts/nuts were used (3/8")....

Anyone else?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:13 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
doh! sagged it! :?

I'd be interested in the 3/8" solution.

Thanks!

MJ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Whoops. I meant 5/8", not 3/8" :oops:

Again, it has been a while...I'll see if I still have the bolts when I get home. :?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:50 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
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We just took our engine off the stand it was mounted to for almost two years.
We helped support it by placing a length of wood underneath the lip of the oil pan at the front of the motor and let it rest on the center brace of the stand.

I'll have to check and see what the weight capacity is for the stand, but we only spent about $40 for it at AutoZone, or some place like that.

Jerry

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Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 2:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
yeah this is a cheapy--probably 700lbs or so. What size bolts did you use to attach it and to where? I'd like to go get them tonight so I can drive over and work on it tomorrow after work.

thanks!

MJ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 2:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
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I'll try to stop by our shop on the way home after work to get the bolt sizes (if I remember where I put them). Honestly, our limiting factor on where to mount was the available free travel of the adjustable arms on the stand. We actually found only one good postition for them to be spread as far as possible and still give us a good balance. You want to be able to roll the engine over, like on a BBQ spit.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Thanks Jerry, that would be super helpful.

MJ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:51 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:07 am
Posts: 66
Location: Central California
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I used the top two outer block to bellhousing holes (3/8 x 3" bolts) and the bottom two block holes (1/2" x 4" bolts) to secure to the stand plate.Image

I have a Harbor Freight stand and no flexing of the upright so far.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
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Location: Troy, Texas
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For what it's worth...
We used what we had available around the shop.

1 bolt 3/8" X 3"
1 bolt 3/8" X 4"
1 bolt 7/16" X 4"
1 bolt 7/16" X 4-1/2"

and a handful of flat washers to take up slack.

The correct lengths will probably depend upon how your particular stand is constructed. the main thing you might consider, since your stand and the hardware store are not close to each other, is to have a small assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts. We all seem to pretty much agree on the sizes.

Hope this helps,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Jeeze--I was all screwed up. My apologies. :oops:

Now what did I do with my memory/energy drink... :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 6:45 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Quote:
I used the top two outer block to bellhousing holes (3/8 x 3" bolts) and the bottom two block holes (1/2" x 4" bolts) to secure to the stand plate.Image

I have a Harbor Freight stand and no flexing of the upright so far.
I have the same stand from the looks of it. That looks like it'll work great. Thanks everyone!

MJ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 7:50 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
By the way, our stand was rated at 750 pound capacity, and it never really flinched while loaded.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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