Your build plan sounds possible. The only hangups I see are the rotor redrilling and the fact that you have so many mixmatched parts that you will have to spend some time sorting out front/rear bias and mastercylinder choices. Unless someone has tried this combination any master cylinder choices will be a calculated guess.

Using a proportioning valve to dial down pressure is a way to balance front / rear bias however you need a place to start. I would ask Scarebird what their recommendations are.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I've got a detailed spec sheet that he included that tells me the part numbers, MBC, but no a prop valve. I think the adjustable one is definitely going to be necessary.

Here's the specifics on installing the scarebird kit (pdf form):

http://62lancer.no-ip.com/scarebird.pdf

Check that out and let me know what you think.

What's your thoughts on the rotor redrill--this is the most problemmatic for me since I have no real concept of how much strength it has, and whether the redrill is really safe. I was hoping someone else has tried this and can tell us about it.

MJ

So has anyone taken the plunge, tried these brackets and redrilled their rotors to SBP?

I'm interested to hear!

MJ

I can't open the link to the instructions - it wants an ID and a password.
I'm considering my own options with regard to disk brakes (for my '64 Valiant), including the scarebird conversion. I'm just not sure I want to stay with the small bolt pattern and its limited rim selection.

http://menko.no-ip.com/files/lancer/scarebird.pdf

sorry was messing with stuff for the board on the other domain name

I am with you on the SBP, but the problem for me has been locating a BBP rear end. There is possibly one a few hours away from me at a yard, but otherwise the rust has claimed a great many around here. I went to a few yards and looked around. The cars from the 60s/70s were just gone.

MJ

I'm curious about scarebird's listing and the instructions, which refer to 1965-72 Mopars. What is the difference between '65's and, say, '64's? I thought the '63-72 A-body 9" drum knuckles were the same.
Whether I do the 73-76 swap or some other conversion, I hope to have this as an option.
I also have the problem of finding parts cars around my part of Texas.

Isn't this set up for the 10" drum spindles? Was ‘65 the first year for those spindles? I don't know for sure I'm just asking.

The only thing I don't like about this is re drilling the rotors. I would also need to upgrade my spindles to the 10" drum spindles on my 63.

I am doing the Mopar Large bolt pattern upgrade. It is getting a bit spendy collecting the parts. Of course I am planning on doing the suspension rebuild based on the Tom Condrand book.

I think the economy in the Scarebird setup is that you are not replacing the other suspension parts. Oh and the rear end. That is the big part that has been holding me back.

If I can find some larger rims for the small bolt pattern, I may just keep the rear for now and go for the large bolt pattern in the front.

I already have the LBP spindles that I purchased a couple of years ago. If not, I may have taken a closer look at the Scarebird setup.

Let us know how if comes out however you decide to go.

John

'62-'73 9" spindles are identical, actually. I have educated the Scarebird guy on this matter. He has said he'll "look into it". Whatever that means.

No, it's for 9" drum spindles. Scarebird's working on a kit for 10" drum spindles.
Very much agreed. I've put the question to a group of engineer/tech friends, and so far that's been everyone's objection. It really raises a bunch of problems. Very tough to get the new bolt circle centred accurately about the hub's axis unless you do the job in a horizontal mill (NOT a drill press). The Scarebird guy says he can supply a template for the redrilling...BZZT! No way that's anywhere near accurate enough. Get this wrong by as little as 1mm, and you'll set up nasty rotational vibrations that cannot be balanced out with wheel weights. What's more, this raises the question of rotor integrity. Is there enough metal "meat" to drill between the existing studs and still have adequate strength in this area? Tough to say for sure. And it's illegal in some states, e.g. Virginia.

It just kind of rains on the parade...it seems like such a great alternative! Dan did he give any indication of how HE drills the rotors he sells? It sure would be nice to find someone who's actually used these for a length of time and not had problems. I just am quite anxious about taking this kind of risk with my brakes!

MJ

I haven't asked him. I ASS-U-ME he uses a template, but maybe he does something more elegant/accurate. Why not send him an e-mail and ask?
That's it exactly.

Oh I asked him, he said he has a template. He wasn't really interested in answering my questions in any depth. Just said "yeah they're plenty thick" or "You drill them with a template or I sell them pre-drilled"

I think he can smell ignorance on my breath

MJ

Either that or he can smell you getting too close to questions that are sticky and tough to answer truthfully.

Let's be careful here. I'd like to look at an S10 rotor before I decided, and my BSME degree is a bit old, but my first reaction is that drilling new holes spaced evenly between the existing holes would not compromise strength to any significant degree. I would prefer to run some numbers first before I insult anyone - or stake my life on it. Does anyone have an S10 rotor handy to give us some dimensions and photos?
New lugs would be a good idea.
Having a machinist do the redrilling is a good idea. It appears that you are basically sandwiching the rotor between the old hub and the rim, so you won't have the wheel offcenter if you don't get the holes exactly correct. You might have a slight imbalance in the rotor itself. A lot of cars have brake systems like this, and considering the manufacturing tolerances involved, they work very well. I believe it's doable by any competent machinist.
This isn't the best braking system money can buy (Yes, I read Mopar Action's latest brake article) but the approach may well fill a need. I think some of us are taking more risks with single-pot master cylinders, ancient 7/16 wheel studs and original lug nuts, and petrified or non-existent bushings, not to mention the original 9X2 drums we're trying to replace.

An excellent point. Risks have to be weighed in context.