i need to put a switch in so not just any fool can start my car so how can i do this/ what wires do i need to slice?

First a question; Do you want to disable the ignition system, or the starting system?

Roger

most of the auto parts stores sell a battery terminal with a thumbscrew on it that disconnects the battery when you unscrew it. you can even take it with you like a key.

Problem here is that there are so many ways to start a slant-6 car without authorization. Heck the starter is right up top and can be arced with a screwdriver!

You might put a relay in series with the + wire to the ignition coil, then use your hidden-in-the-car switch to toggle that relay on and off. With the relay off, the engine will crank all day and not start.

i want a button that i can hide and keep the motor from turning over unless the switch is on.

I got a lock that kills the ignition AND locks the hood (my car doesn't have a hood lock). I don't know if you are trying to do it as cheap as possible, but it only cost me $40 on e-bay. You can get one new at JC Whitney for about $60.
If you want it cheap, I think a switch in the coil to distributor wire would work; maybe tuck it up under the dash.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Go down to the electronics store. get a 2 position micro switch, make a bracket and hide it in your drivers side kick panel with some fiberglass padding and resin, notch the top of the kick panel just enough you can sneak your index finger down and toggle the switch. For good rule of thumb, rear position is BACK, you aint goin anywhere. Forward is GO and the engine is ready to turn over. the back of the microswitch should have 3/6 terminals (single or in pairs, in three rows)

Run a wire (maybe black) for ground and solder it to the BACK position terminal, solder another terminal to the other end of the wire and ground it to your chassis behind your kick panel.

Run another wire from the middle terminal (maybe blue or red) and solder it to that terminal. The other end of the wire goes to the (-) of the coil. Thats your hot lead.

By putting the switch in rear position it renders the coil grounded, wont damage the coil, wont give off a spark to the coil wire. Once the switch is put in the forward position its like the wire you just hooked up isnt even there and its ready to fire. I did this on my Slant about 3 years ago. Now I run MSD's and the kill wire is the red on the MSD trigger supply. If you need help with that, post it, I'll help ya.

Pete

By the way, total cost for the above job. Switch $3.99, Wires, $2.00, Fiberglass resin or contact cement $1.99, Labor 2hrs

I bought a $20 battery disconnect switch and mounted it behind the grill of my 85 D100. I made a lever out of a plastic handle that just protrudes through the grill. Its painted the same color as the grill so it is easy to not see but easy to pullout to disconnect and push in to connect. Some of my assessories like my gauges, radio and driving lights have a separate ground wire running to the battery. So they remain powered even with battery disconnect pulled. That's just to confuse a would be thief. Just before I get in my truck, I push in the lever and off I go. Takes about 1/2 a second

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There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

Disconnect + from cig lighter, then connect a wire from the lighter to the negitave side of the coil. Push in for kill, pull out for run.

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Ross Rither
1964 Dart, 170
225, super six.

i like the sounds of useing the lighter for a kill.

but whats if i want to use my phone charger?

I dont like the idea of the lighter kill, you will always have your idiot friend trying to do something, whether light up or plug some accesory in the car, you wont remember, you say you will, but you wont, too into the moment of driving, and WHAM....engine shuts off cuz your buddy killed the coil. Its a good way to damage your electrical system that way.