Well my fiance is finally getting to the point of being able to do some work on her Dart since the last summer that we spent on it. She just got a job at the local Lowes and is saving up money for engine and tranny overhaul parts. Two parts she needs ASAP are a new radiator and starter. Since I haven't yet been home since before her birthday, I though I'd get her one of the two to go along with the her other birthday gifts from me. Does anyone make a good gear reduction starter for the 225, and whether yes or no, who makes a good quality starter? I seem to remember Mean Green doesn't make one for the 225 (bummer), which would have been my first choice.

Also, the original radiator is shot. All clogged up and leaking (despite my efforts to try and save it) from sitting for about 25 years and hardly being driven until just a couple years ago, for a short while. So the same question applies for a radiator: Who makes a good quality one? Also, what size will I need for the car? 1970 Dart Swinger 225.

Looks like it might finally get to be rescued, albeit slowly

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Just get a late model starter 90 or so 318.
They are small, reliable, and plenty strong..
Don´t know about the radiator...

Will it bolt right in?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The original starter is a gear-reduction starter. All '62 and up rear wheel drive Mopar gear-reduction starters are interchangeable, except for a very few 426 Hemi engines and taxi/cop/truck slant-6s with 4-speed transmissions.

The '89-'01 Mopar rear wheel drive cars, trucks and vans with 3.9 V6, 5.2 and 5.9 V8 use a smaller Japanese starter that interchanges with the earlier Chrysler-built unit. It works fine, weighs less, and makes your car sound like a Honda when it starts. Some people don't mind that.

"Mean Green" and "PowerMaster" and the like are just selling production parts from later-model vehicles at HUGE markup. No reason to waste money that way.

What efforts did you make to try and save the radiator? Most of them can be re-cored. If your tanks and brackets are unusable (very unusual, but possible) it shouldn't be hard to get a new one via a radiator shop or even a handy local NAPA.

The original starter is a gear-reduction starter. All '62 and up rear wheel drive Mopar gear-reduction starters are interchangeable, except for a very few 426 Hemi engines and taxi/cop/truck slant-6s with 4-speed transmissions.

The '89-'01 Mopar rear wheel drive cars, trucks and vans with 3.9 V6, 5.2 and 5.9 V8 use a smaller Japanese starter that interchanges with the earlier Chrysler-built unit. It works fine, weighs less, and makes your car sound like a Honda when it starts. Some people don't mind that.

"Mean Green" and "PowerMaster" and the like are just selling production parts from later-model vehicles at HUGE markup. No reason to waste money that way.

What efforts did you make to try and save the radiator? Most of them can be re-cored. If your tanks and brackets are unusable (very unusual, but possible) it shouldn't be hard to get a new one via a radiator shop or even a handy local NAPA.

I must admit I have never used one, but everyone that has posted here say it will bolt right on, but it will put the motor a bit longer from the block, so it may not fit if you have headers.

RustC, other way 'round. The late-model starter is *smaller* than the '62-'87 units, so it is often used to create extra clearance when headers are used.

Yes, it is smaller, but I think it sticks farther out from the block???
I guess it depends on what headers you got too, but as I said, I have not tried one, so I will shut up now.

This is a topic I will be eyeballing pretty closely as my original rad is due for a recore, and once the spare 318 rad goes in I will be looking for a place to re-core it. Maybe even an industrial core with the straight fins...

For what it's worth Ive been told by a few places that Abody and Aspen/Volare rads are tricky to build, though I can't imagine why. So be sure to ask if their techs have done them before, at least.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Just a little fyi for the a-body crew.If you have a 18" radiator you can upgrade to a 22" radiator without any cutting and usually without any drilling.

Wider radiator = better colling.

JZ

I went from an 18 rad to a 22" rad from an aspen. when that one went this fall I bought a brand new 22" extra capacity rad for a V8 w/ A/C. I had to get creative with the hoses but, it increased my coolant volume by a gallon(holds like 3 gallons now) and now my temp gage goes up to normal and never moves.

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This applies only to the round-tank models used up through '68 (maybe '69?). The '70(?)-up radiators have square-top tanks that aren't as tricky to solder correctly.

A 19" radiator will work just fine. Heck, thats what I have in my big 'ol Satellite (used to be a 22", a 19" was all I could find in a day...don't ask.). You can find the mini starters all day in wrecking yards for 25-35 bucks. You may need a longer positive cable if the old one won't stretch enough. The only thing to fail on them are the soloniod contacts, and they give plenty warning when they are about to go. A 14 dollar kit and a half hour fixes them if or when they go.

This is what I was scratching my head over! Both my original rad and the 318 Volare rad are squared.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Hmmmm, when I rebuilt the starter a couple years ago (helped it, but didn't solve the original problem of it not retracting until several seconds after the engine started, which is why I'm going to test the starter relay too before replacing the starter), I remember it being a direct drive unit. Is it possible that it's a cheapo aftermarket starter that's on their now?

As for recoring the radiator, I don't think that's an option here. It's got so many leaks that I've patched and soldered when we last worked on it, I don't think it'll be worth the money to have it repaired. I like the idea of a 22" radiator though. Be good for the mid/late summer months. No A/C on the Dart, so any suggestions on where to get a good quality rad for a decent price?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me