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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:07 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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dead link, ultra.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:10 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
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Darn it I just tried it before I pasted it and I always erase my internet crap automatically, so it wasn't old but it doesnt work now, I agree.

Hey, I just tried it again and it works again now:

http://www.carburetorfactory.com/evindex.html

If it doesn't work, try again in 10 minutes and it seems to, prob a small business puter used to host a website.

BTW the parts guy (Troy) kept pointing at part number 36.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Quote:
Go to this site jeb and tell me that the holley 1945 doesn't have a metering rod. Show me the power valve. It has one or the other, right? That is what runs the enrichment.

http://www.carburetorfactory.com/evindex.html

BTW the parts guy (Troy) kept pointing at part number 36.

Part number 36 is the vacuum piston that operates the power valve. No's 45, 46, and 47 is the power valve. Actually it is a "gradient power vavle", the fatter part that appears straight actually has a few thousandths taper to it making it sort of work like a metering rod. This is active during cruise mode. When you step on it far enough to lower manifold vacuum enough then #46 gets pushed all the way down by #36 and 37. Now the skinny part of #46 is allowing full fuel flow through the power valve and at this point fuel flow is metered by a orfice inside the carb body that is concealed by a lead plug. The power valve and this tiny orfice are in parallel with the main jet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:30 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
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Well, it sure looks more like a metering rod then a "power vavle". What is the difference?

A holley 4bbl performance carb has an actual power valve, you know the type that is susceptible to blow-out by backfire and has a diaphragm. Edelbrock has metering rods (Carter design) and this sure as heck appears to be a metering rod regardless of what you or holley call it. A rose by any other name...

Anyway, regardless of the dispute on what to call the part, thanks for the clarification of the operation of the components. Didn't happen to notice any lead plugs while inside there but it could exist albeit I don't know if of lead.

Both power valves and metering rods are controlled by vacuum, right? They both enrichen the mixture right? Is there a trademark issue here?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
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Location: Hutchinson, MN
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That carburetor uses a main jet with no metering rod. The power valve is a separate item in that carb and it happens to have a limited ability to "meter" fuel in part of its operating range. After it is wide open the fuel is metered by the hidden orfice in the carburetor body.


Metering rods and power valves can be vacuum or mechanically operated. That Holley 1945 carb also has a mechanical override for the power valve. It forces the power valve full open at full throttle.

That exploded view of the carb does not show all the variations of that carb. Slant 6 trucks in the 1980's also used a second mechanically operated power valve in the carb. It is set to only open at full throttle.

In the Carter BBD the metering rods are mechanical and vacuum operated.

All of the lead plugs are on the outside of the Holley 1945 carburetor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Quote:
Yep craig, it's 12 deg btdc and a manual and we have it set to about 9 right now because of pinging. There is no o2 sensor, vacuum hose does go to the carb-top puter, rev the engine up and the timing hits 20 for about 1/4 second and then goes about 12 deg relatively steady. Strange advance behavior.
The ESA produces unique advance curves that can not be created by conventional mechanical / vacuum advance mechanisms. If you are getting pinging, then the ESA computer must be providing some kind of advance, otherwise it would not ping.

I need to run my '87 truck with a little less timing than the specification too. The ESA computer computer provides total timing somewhere in the mid 40's degree range. It's in the factory service manual if you know where to look.

Quote:
The Doc man and slant6ram believe there is no mechanical advance in this dist and I cant see one either unless it is under the pickup plate. The rotor doesn't really spring back and forth which either means there is no mech advance or it is rusted solid.
If there is no vacuum pod on the distributor, then there is also no mechanical advance inside.
Quote:
re. slant6ram's post, the egr could help the pinging/run-on that was happening before by reducing combustion temps but decarbonizing the combustion chambers could do the same. We hooked it up for good measure for now but I agree that it has nothing to do with the actual problem we are experiencing.
The ignition timing is calibrated to work with the EGR functioning. Disconnect the EGR and pinging is likely.
Quote:
I think this engine should have a lot more than 12 to 14 deg total advance. I think this is an excellent starting point.

How do I check if it's in limp mode? can you on-off-on the key 3 times on this chrysler to check? I should prob check not ask but it's down the street and it's raining and I melt in the rain. Prob not important anyway as I wish to replace the ignition.
It's been a while and I'm forgetting how the limp mode works. Limp mode provides a pretty much fixed ignition timing and greatly reduced engine performance. There is not key on-off procedure on these systems.

Also be aware that the ESA computer produces different advance curves for a cold engine than for a hot engine. There is a extra temperature sender/sensor in the head that sends a signal to the ESA computer. On the early 80's trucks this is a switch that is either open or closed. On the later trucks it is a thermister (temperature sensitive variable resistor). I do not know what year that changed.

If the temp sender for ESA computer is not hooked up or working, then the computer may not know if engine is cold or hot. With a cold engine, the ESA comptuer provides simulated mechanical advance, and for vacuum advance it provides increased advacne with decreasing manifold vacuum. Yes exactly opposite of a conventional vacuum pod. This greatly enhances cold engine driveability (good reason to keep the ESA computer!!). With a hot engine, it produces advance curves similar to conventional mechanical/vacuum advance distributor.

If your ESA temp sensor is disconnected (or not working) the ESA computer will think the engine is cold all the time and will advance the timing with decreased vacuum such as driving down the road with a hot engine and will cause serious pinging this way. I once saw a '86 S6 truck in the salvage yard where someone had removed the temp sensor for the ESA comptuer ( and left the wires hang) to install an aftermarket temperature gauge in the cab. This would make the ESA computer think the engine was cold all the time.

I used to have a couple good books from OTC (Owatanna Tool Company, they make special tools and also diagnostic tools for all this new fangled electronic stuff). Those books had a lot of good information about how the ESA computer works and what it does with different engine temperature and other variable. After reading those books I went out and played with my truck an was able to verify everything those books said about how the ESA system works. This information is NOT in any Chrysler factory service manual. Unfortunately I lost those books along with most of the rest of my extensive library to an arson fire at a storage facility 2 years ago. :(

There is a procedure in the factory service manual to check if the ESA comptuer is working. You apply a certain amount of vacuum to the ESA computer and run the engine at a certain RPM and check if the advance is within the specified range. However this depends that the base timing also be set to specification first.

Hope you alll can make some sense of this information. It's difficult for me to convey all the technicalities to you this way. Those OTC books were a great source of ESA system understanding. I think the biggest problem with the ESA computers on a Slant 6 is that no one knows how they work or how to check them and verify that everything is working as intended. Thus everyone is quick to remove them and replace with a conventional distributor ignition.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:54 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
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Wow. That's a wealth of information. We'll go make sure everything is hooked up. I think a few things might not be hooked up like the charcoal canister and any electronics for that and the idle control but all of the parts should be around.

I will look for factory service manuals and OTC manuals for this.

When setting timing is it done with vacuum to ESA connected or disconnected?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:57 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:00 am
Posts: 143
Location: Southern Indiana
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My '82 D150 /6 3 speed OD was also equipped with a lean burn system. I fought the lean burn system for about a year. Poor gas mileage and short on power.
I finally went to a local salvage yard and purchased a standard electronic igntion, wiring harness, distributor and carb from a late 70's Aspen. I installed all new exhaust with a low restriction muffler.
The results were amazing. Power was greatly improved (especially in third and overdrive) and highway mileage averaged over 20 mpg and 15-16 around town.
Good Luck
Todd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:13 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
Car Model:
I printed out a bunch of stuff for him on converting it to HEI and he decided to do so. I think HEI is probably better than the stock dodge (non-lean burn) ignition. He got a dist from a local yard and an Echlin TP45 and started wiring it yesterday.

SlantSixDan was very helpful and got me all the info I needed on wiring it.

I have heard of someone else getting 18 mpg which sounds pretty amazing but I guess possilble if you are getting 20. That's really good mileage.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... =hei#63222

http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 9:40 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
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Why do these forums state under my user name that I have a 2bbl super six? I do not nor did I ever.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 12:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
That phrase under your name is just a for-fun rating based on the number of posts. I kind of like it. I also like the option of having the state or other flag over there, too.
My car actually has a 1-barrel BBS, with a Super Six manifold and carb sitting on a shelf in my garage.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 1:52 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2003 12:36 am
Posts: 90
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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I had my lean burn replaced in my 83 truck. My mechanic fiddled with the old Carter carb for a while also, but I just couldn't get it to pass state emissions. He got one remanufactured and leaned it out apparently and it barely passed by 1 ppm HC if I'm not mistaken. I had him readjust it after it pased inspection so it would idle warm. It would otherwise die off after 10-15 minutes of driving at idle. Mine also has a flat spot in throttle, mostly when cold. One thing is for sure. The past 6 months, I have started it up less than a dozen times. It has yet to fail me. Any suggestions for getting it to pass this year without repeated adjustments? If it doesn't pass, I have to spend at least $200 in repairs just to get a waiver.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 6:46 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
Car Model:
Well, we did the HEI conversion. It runs really well. Estimates are that it gained about 6 mpg and also a lot of power and driveability.

The carburetor is still a problem however although now we have proven that this had both carb and ignition problems.

The voltage regulator crapped out during the conversion somehow and we replaced that too.

The egr is now hooked up and it doesn't ping or anything.

It sounds great with no cat (which was all in pieces) and a glasspack.

The carb definitely needs attention as the idle screw needs to be backed out soo far, it has too high an idle and we can't figure out where it's getting it's airflow from, runs really rich at speed under load.

The airflow problem is probably more significant right this second than is the rich-under-load-at-speed problem. I can put my finger over the pcv and return it to about a normal idle, otherwise it idles a hair over 1000. We have the throttle plate closed as far as I can tell and I do not see any holes drilled in it when looking down from the top. We cannot detect any obvious vacuum leaks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 6:08 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Clearwater, FL
Car Model:
New carb about a month ago for 117 dollars from guaranteed carburetor in Largo, FL and now it runs very well.

The carb and the hei were the magic combination. We just could not figure out what was wrong with the old carb, everything seemed good but then we don't do that for a living either. The lean-burn was just too complicated to keep.

Doc just put heavy duty springs in the rear tonight and now it looks, runs and sounds awesome.

Thanks again for all of the helpful input everyone.


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 Post subject: Cool
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 7:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:27 am
Posts: 824
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Great job of sticking with it and following up for the benifit of others.

How much do you think it cost all together to build the truck? You should have trouble free operation for a while now.

When upgrading to the HEI, did you install a different ignition coil? You should have installed a coil which does not require an external balast resistor. If you didn't, the coil will eventually burn out. Mine never stopped dead, but became a real bear to get started when cold.

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