I am taking parts off my 64 225 slant and putting them on my rebuilt aluminum 225 slant. I have removed the old 64 standpipe and want to transfer it to my new engine. Why is there a spring on the underside of the standpipe? If I put the standpipe in my mouth and lightly blow nothing happens When I give it more pressure it flows freely. Is this correct? There also was some type of "o" ring or rubber gasket on the threads of the standpipe in the oil pump. What was that for and would I need to replace it? Now to the oil filter. Good ol Farm and Fleet only carries Fram PH8A oil filters. That is NOT going on my engine. They also carry K&N oil filters for a whopping $10.00. Anyone hear how good they are? The K&N oil filter book does not list the 225 as far as I could see but I compared size and "O" ring to the Fram PH8A and I did find a match so it should work If I choose to go that route. Any other suggestions for an oil filter? Napa, Weaver auto stores?

NAPA 1515, Wix 51515.

Correct in your assessment of the standpipe. Not sure about an o-ring, never encountered that, maybe they all fell off before I came along... anyone else know about it?

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Just went to K&N`s web page and they had a cross reference chart. Appears I can use their HP3001 oil filter which is what I had compared the PH8A fram too. Now are they worth $10.00

You can probably still order a new standpipe # 3577-848 from a dealer, though they may have to run a locate to find it. There's a spring-loaded check valve in the base of the standpipe assembly. Sometimes they get a little sticky with age. Spray some good carb cleaner down through the top end, cap both ends with your fingers and give a good shake-rattle-and-roll, that should free it up a little. The O-ring is used to get a good seal between the standpipe body and the oil pump body, and to prevent the standpipe from unscrewing out of the oil pump when you unscrew the filter. Replace with a new O-ring if you don't get a new standpipe.

Good thinking on not getting Fram. The same applies to K&N's stuff (their air filters are overhyped junk; their oil filters are repainted and overpriced Purolators, which are good filters, but again, overpriced). No need to buy bad filters; good ones don't cost much more if you shop around. Mann W917 is a very good, high-quality filter (the RWD Volvo guys like 'em a lot) with identical critical dimensions and specs to the '72-'85 Mopar filter. The tall '64 standpipe might or might not clear it; the short 3577-848 certainly will. You can get a case of ten W917s for $35 here, throw 'em on the shelf and not worry about it 'til next oil change. Or find a local NAPA and get their number 1515 (original tall-height filter). Or a Purolator L30001.

I think K&N is a bunch of hype, but that's just me.

D/W

EDIT: Well, me and Dan. He dropped that in while I was typing the above!

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Ive always wondered about their high flow air filterchargers and how effective they really are at filtering air.

Not nearly as effective as they are at draining wallets.

Take a look.

Standpipes are still availible dealer, IIRC when I orderd mine a few months ago it was only a 1 or 2 day wait

Be careful though, mine came mis-assembled with the checkvalve reversed, so I had to fiddle with it. Make sure when your looking at it, the check valve, in the closed position, has the little plate towards the top of the oil filter and opens downward.

I used a K&N filter once, I just looked on the box and it had cross reference numbers on it. Now I run the taller wix 51773 filter and add a 1/2 to 1 quart more oil.

I had one that the check valve was not working (bearing clunk on engine start-up until everything filled with oil pressure again). Inspection revealed the spring was not holding the disk tight to the seat. I was able to carefully work the spring out and stretch it a bit and work it back in. Problem fixed.

Dumb question--what's a standpipe?

MJ

Its the pipe that attaches to the oil pump, that the oil filter fits over. It directs oil into the filter.

NewLancerMan, good question, 'cause you may not have one on either of your '62 engines.

The oil pump originally had just a plain old double-ended male threaded fitting screwed into the centre of the oil filter mounting pad atop the filter. Coarse thread into the pump, fine thread for the filter. Early in the '62 model year, this was changed to a fitting with a standpipe about 3" tall, the idea being to prevent oil draining down through the centre fitting once the engine had been shut off. Late in the '62 model year, a check valve was added to the fitting to give added insurance against oil draining down. In '73, when the shorter filter was standardized upon for all Mopar engines, the height of the standpipe was reduced to accommodate the shorter filter. Nowtimes, most oil pumps come with just the original style double-ended male threaded fitting.

All of these fittings are used only with disposable spin-on oil filters. There were also replaceable-element/permanent-housing filters available for the slant-6, primarily used in fleet and industrial applications. Those thread directly into the oil filter.

You know, I've never looked real closely. I don't think that I do. I'll have to check. Should I install one if I dont have one?

Here's the only pic I have that might tell ya one way or the other

Oil Fitting Picture

MJ

Wrong fitting. That''s the oil pressure sender. The fitting in question is what the oil filter screws onto.

yeah I just thought you might be able to tell if I have it based on the priximity of the filter to the fitting in the picture. =)

MJ