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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24387
Location: North America
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Quote:
Rebuild kits for a '64 are not that hard to find. My transmission guy got one overnight from his usual Dallas supplier. Neutral safety switches are another matter.
Bernbaum's got the Neutral Safety Switch, too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 6:55 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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Quote:
Well the boot I ordered Friday afternoon from Andy Bernbaum arrived in the mail today. That was fast considering it was a holiday weekend and all.

So here is my next question, in the service manual it says to use Universal Joint Lubrication. Is there a modern equivalent of this or is this still sold at the parts stores.

John
molybdenum disulfide grease?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:41 pm 
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Ooh, good question on the grease. My recollection is that U-joint grease is different from wheel bearing grease, in that it is a long-fibre composition. There's a description of it in the front of most any applicable service manual.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:52 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
lithium soap grease maybe? Like a CV joint grease?

Ive never seen tubes of grease marketed as such. I work with Ujoints at work all the time and will definitely keep an eye on this one, I do have a few accounts that go through pump drives rather often..

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 10:56 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:00 am
Posts: 53
Location: So Cal
Car Model:
I ended up ordering my rebuild kit with boot and clamps included from Bernbaum for $75.

Then i received an email from a CA dealer who has them for a little more $. In case Bernbaum ever runs out, here is the info:


We have a new U-joint kit for that car available @ $98. If we can be of assistance, please contact us @ 951-694-3062.
* * * * * * *
We specialize in NOS and reproduction mechanical, electrical and rubber parts for 1936-74 Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler, Imperial and Dodge Truck. We carry parts for brakes, engine, drive-line, steering, suspension, wipers, heater/AC, electrical, etc. We also have lenses, locks, weather-stripping, service manuals, owner's manuals but no sheet metal, chrome or trim.

For our latest catalog, send $7 ($14 foreign) - SPECIFY 1936-59 or 1960-74

Atlas Obsolete Chrysler Parts
27576 Commerce Center #107
Temecula, CA 92590

951-694-3062
fax: 951-694-3074


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 Post subject: Now What?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 6:22 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:00 am
Posts: 53
Location: So Cal
Car Model:
So I received my rebuild kit for the B&T. 62' ordered from Berbaum and it says kit Q111. I have 64 valiant w/ auto trans /6.

Question, my car has no spring in the boot but the rebuild kit does. What is this all about?

Thanks in advance.

James.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:55 am 
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Location: North America
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You got the wrong kit. Your '64 Valiant needs a Q112.


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 Post subject: Clamps
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:54 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 12:51 pm
Posts: 246
Location: Lake City, FL
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I have the new boot installed. Once I liberally lubed it up, it slid over and through everything fairly easily. It's all back together and the drive shaft is back on the car. I used a high temperature grease on it for lubrication. It’s not as honey like as the original stuff, but hopefully it will work.

The only thing I am wondering about here is with the clamps that came with the kit. These are held together with screws. I have them set so they should balance each other out, but the ends of the screws protruding through the nuts are a bit long. Should I trim the ends down a bit. I'm just not sure if it is a good idea to have something that could catch/stab/snag something spinning so fast under the car.

John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 3:44 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:00 am
Posts: 53
Location: So Cal
Car Model:
I ended up taking my driveshaft to a local guy called Ed Moore drivelines becuase I couldn't get the pin out with the small press I had access to (it worked for the rear U-joint). Good thing I did because as soon as I showed up he stuck his finger in the bell and said, "you also need a bell, I have a few in the back." He goes and then comes back a few minutes later with a bell and a new rebuild kit to check that the parts I was asking him to work on matched what he had. After a short negotiation for the price of the bell, I left the driveshaft with him as he said he had rebuilt a few hundred of those "Detroit bells" over the years. Anyway, when I picked up the driveshaft, he had not cut the length but bent the long part of the bolt in toward the driveshaft. He said that by doing this, there will be no way the nut will come of from motion. It was not bent much, just enough to keep the nut from spinning loose and not break from the bending.

Nice to find a local guy who knew my parts!

He charged me $60 for the bell and the complete rebuild (pressing out out of the pin etc) so with the $75 kit from Bernbaums and shipping it was like $140 to loose the vibration my car doing.

I have since found out that the difference between the Q111 and Q112 kit from Bernbaum's is that the Q111 kit comes with an extra spring. I did not need it for my 64.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 12:51 pm
Posts: 246
Location: Lake City, FL
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Thanks James. That sound easy enough.

John


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