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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 1:40 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Winchester, VA
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Hi guys, Im looking for the pin that holds the self adjuster lever to the pad/shoe. Ive checked all the parts stores, but no one knows what the he$% Im talking about, or they just dont have it. AutoZone said to check the dealer. I told him Ill just ask God to drop ship it to my door and expect better results. They wouldnt really have parts still at the dealer would they? Thanks in advance for any help.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2218
Location: Everett, WA
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Ask for the "small parts kit" for your drum brakes. It may have the pin. There is also a kit just for the self-adjuster. Otherwise, I would try a brake shop.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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When you ask questions like this, it's always helpful to include the model, year, and specifics (e.g. "1964 Valiant with 9" drum brakes", "1972 Dart with 10" drum brakes", etc.). The self-adjust pin is not available separately. It does come in the self-adjust hardware package. A different package is used for 9" and 10" drum brakes, and for up-to-'68 and '69-and-later cars. Also, new brake shoes come with a new pin. Sometimes the pin diameters and lengths are very slightly different; I've run into problems using one manufacturer's pin with another manufacturer's brake shoes.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 2:38 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:00 pm
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Location: Winchester, VA
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Sorry, its a 68 dart, stock 9" drums. I asked about the self adjuster kit, but AZ and AA both said it wasnt included. I guess Ill try a brake shop. I bought new pads, but no pins with them. What brand of pads did you buy?Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 2:49 pm 
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Location: North America
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Here y'go. If you're rebuilding your brake system, put in the whole '69-up self adjust system. It's more reliable and less fussy.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 4:43 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Winchester, VA
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Cool. Glad its that easy. Thanks. Ill let you know if I have any more problems with it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
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Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Those pins are supposed to come with the new shoes. Often they are loose in the box, not even in a plastic bag. Half the time they are missing. If they are not in the box, try a different set or go buy shoes someplace else. That really ticks me off when those pins are not in the box with the shoes and the stupid counter person does not know any better.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:35 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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In the past when I've gotten shoes without the pins, I just took the old ones out and used a vice to press them into the new ones. Use an old socket to aid in doing this, along with a punch about the same diamater to pound out the pin. I use Raybestos now, and they come with the pins. I get them at Shucks. They may be known as Checker in your neck of the woods.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 5:30 am 
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Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Quote:
In the past when I've gotten shoes without the pins, I just took the old ones out and used a vice to press them into the new ones.
That may work where things do not rust, but here in the rust belt you can forget that idea.

The usual answer I get from the parts store is "you have to reuse the old one" or "you have to buy the brake hardware kit".

Another thing to watch for is when you buy a new master cylinder for manual brake applications........ BE SURE the little rubber grommet is in the box that is used to retain the pushrod in the back of the master cylinder. Half the time that is missing too.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 10:59 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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Um, Craig, I live in Seattle. It gets a little moist here. :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 11:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Ditto what Eric said. Considering that brakes regularly heat up to hundreds of degrees Fahrenheit unless the car sits a lot no moisture will be present to rust the pin into the shoe.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
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Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
I use Wagner and they come with the pin.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 2:58 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Winchester, VA
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Thanks for all the input guys. Im gonna get some pads at AZ tomorrow and rob the pins. Its only fair since they didnt come with these.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 4:49 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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I have to disagree here. In the rust belt salt is present in the water and snow and slush that inevitably gets into our wheel ends, and salt does not boil off along with the water. It does speed the deterioration of brake parts.

Once the car does sit, condensation gets in and rehydrates the salt which rusts parts even further. Ive seen the difference between my own car which gets driven gently and the forklifts I work on, some of which are driven balls to the mat 24 hours a day and there is very little rust on the shoes even at the end of their life cycle.

The bigger lesson to be learned here is not to use auto parts stores that cater mainly to public consumers. Go to an auto parts store that supplies businesses, repair garages, like NAPA, McKerlie Millen, Federated, etc. They are accountable to big dollar customers that can hurt their business if served poorly and they are generally more responsible in taking orders, and supply better quality parts. That means, drive right by Auto Zone and instead go to one smack in the middle of an industrial park. And when they hand you the box, open it up at the counter. If the pin is gone, ask for it.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2005 10:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1392
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
I agree with Step. There seem to be different qualities of parts available, even at the NAPA stores. Sometimes you just need to ask if they have a higher quality part. It didn't used to be that way, but profits are the bottom line and I guess they make more with the lower quality stuff.

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