Installing them now....

The old bushings I had on there of unknown origin/brand had a sleeve on the rod, the moog bushings did not include a sleeve and I had to remove the old sleeve because the ID of the moog bushings were made to fit over the rod directly. That sound right to you guys?

Moog instructions say tighten to 40-60 ft-lb on the frame side. I was still cranking away at the ratchet and haven't hit 40ft-lb yet, the bushings are still squishing. The hole for the pin is exposed, and if I keep tightening to the spec'd 40 ft-lb there is going to be quite a distance between the pin and nut. Is this normal?

Also noticed there is a gap between the front most rubber piece and the frame on the bottom. This could be because the car is raised off the ground and the rod is at an angle, or because I still need to tighten the bolt more. Anyone have a picture of them installed ?

Here is a pic of the left one installed on the 65 k member in my 61 Valiant.

It is barely torqued to 40 ft/lb. I snugged up the bushings (hand tight)
then put the car back on the ground - did the ride height adjustment -
then torqued the bushings - I did not see any gaps doing it that way.
I had the k member and tbars out also so the FSM has you leave the
LCA pivots and strut bushing just snug until the ride height is good.

I read in the Condran Book the moog improved strut bushing (K-7040)
had the sleeve - But when I got my parts the K-7040 was just the 2 part
bushing set with the washers - I surmise Moog cheapened this part up.
You probably took off an old Moog part.

http://members.cox.net/relic-lover/moog7040.jpg

Thanks for the info and pics. Looks like you have plenty of threads exposed after where the pin hole would be.

Yes, I think the gap I got was when trying to tighten while tires weren't on ground. I loosend it back up and won't torque anything until ride height is set, after reading that in the fsm.

I don't see why a sleeve is necessary if they can just make a bushing with smaller inner diameter anyway to fit right over hte rod.

I left the LCA pivots, UCA bushing bolts, and now the strut rod hand tight until I get the car on all 4's and height set.