the newly purchased 67 dart idles fine when first started, after it runs for awhile, i have to keep my foot on the gas to keep from stalling at a stop light. also when it warms up after a while the cough on take off is much more pronounced. how hot is too hot? theres an aftermarket water temp gauge under the dash. i watched it hit 200 today, and the factory temp meter was really leaning towards the hot side.

Well...yeah. When your car sits on top of a mountain for a few years, systems prone to deterioration are going to go to shìt', unfortunately. Brake hydraulics, cooling system, fuel system, oil seals...expect to have to go through a lot of repairs in these systems now that the car's being used again.

The hesitation/cough is not normal. Have you gone through the carb with a kit yet?

200 is on the high side (assuming the aftermarket gauge isn't telling lies -- but you say the factory gauge is also leaning towards "H"). I'm guessing there's quite a bit of cräp in your cooling system, and possibly advanced radiator corrosion. Have you checked?

well, im kinda stuck with driving this car in between repairs. i have replaced all the wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, the rubber hoses up front (the rear one looked fine), the fuel filter, cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, and oil. when i first got it, the antifreeze was a nice bright green (he probably put it in so it would look right), but checking it today reveals a split pea soup in there. will clean it out asap.
yes theres a carb rebuild kit sitting on my dryer as we type.
time... hard to come by it with two kids by myself.

and how would i know if the radiator was suffering from adavnced deterioration? looked ok, when i looked down there.

I think, it's idling OK when cold because the automatic choke is making the engine idle faster and richer.

I forgot from your other postings whether you've had a chance to adjust the idle speed and idle air screw?

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1963 Dodge Dart, motor by Doug Dutra, Offenhauser two carb intake, Pertronix, Clifford 6x2, Flowmaster 40's, Erson RV15/295 RDP, head work. Addco anti-sway bar, urethane suspension bushings, KYB's, racing leafs, SSBC discs. Need ZDDP? Get STP.

I too had doubts about the accuracy of my temp gauge. I went to the store, bought a cooking thermometer, checked the radiator coolant directly. No lies. BTW, important, be sure to have the cap off during warm up. Not that you would be stupid as me.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

well, ok, i can take the hose that blows back into the radiator off, and stick a water hose into the fill/check cap with the engine running, and wait till clean water is pumped back out the exit hose (thermostat removed) right?

no, i figured id wait for any carb screw twiddling until i go through with a carb rebuild kit. mainly waiting to find an older needle type dwell tach, as i dont like the digital ones sold at autoparts places today.
for now i'll hope that the carb rebuild kit is the answer, along with a radiator/cooling system flush.

Hi AWOL - sorry for the delay in getting back...

It might be worth a couple of minutes to back out the idle mixture screw on your carby to see if that improves the idle.

The fact that it seems to run good when "on choke" and not when not makes me think it might be running lean at idle (or the idle might be down too low, once your fast idle cam goes off duty).

Re: heat - I've had cars that ran real hot, and that in-itself never made them stop running (it's the side effects that do the damage).

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1963 Dodge Dart, motor by Doug Dutra, Offenhauser two carb intake, Pertronix, Clifford 6x2, Flowmaster 40's, Erson RV15/295 RDP, head work. Addco anti-sway bar, urethane suspension bushings, KYB's, racing leafs, SSBC discs. Need ZDDP? Get STP.

ive attributed it to the gas line vaopr locking, or the in tank filter clogging up. because the fast idle cam goes off the job, and the screw sits normal, and then after a while the hot idle goes way down.
thanks