hey, i need help on how to bleed my brakes correctly, and if its easy to do with just one person.

It's much easier with two people. Any chance you can get an assistant?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yes of course

OK, then. Opinions differ, even amongst different-year factory shop manuals, as to whether you should start with the corner closest to the master cylinder (left front) or with the corner farthest from the master cylinder (right rear). Pick one procedure or the other. I usually start with the left front.

First, do an inspection. If you've got disc brakes, make sure the bleeder screws are at the top of the calipers, not at the bottom. If they're at the bottom, the calipers are improperly installed and you'll never be able to get a successful bleed (air rises!). Also, pay some attention to the bleeders themselves. If they're old and/or rusty, they can be very difficult or impossible to open.

You'll need a supply of the proper grade of brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, all of which are intermixable. not DOT 5 silicone fluid, unless you have completely converted your system to that fluid, in which case that is the only type you can use.). You'll need a clear see-through jar. You'll need some flexible plastic tubing, preferably see-through, of the correct size to fit firmly over the nipple on the end of each bleeder screw. Check this in advance; sometimes the front and rear bleeder nipples are different sizes.

Pour some brake fluid into the jar, about 2" deep. Push one end of the tubing over the left front bleeder nipple and put the other end of the tubing into the jar so that it is submerged in the fluid. Make sure the brake master cylinder is topped right up with brake fluid. Put the cover on the master, but there's no need to secure it with the bolt or spring clamp.

One person "A" operates the bleeder with an appropriate wrench, and the other person "B" operates the brake pedal, like this:

"A" pumps the brake pedal until it's firm, keeps his foot pressing on the pedal, and calls out "UP!". At that point, "B" opens the bleeder. The pedal will sink to the floorboard, and brake fluid with air bubbles will be expelled from the tubing into the jar. As soon as the pedal hits the floor, "A" calls out "DOWN!", and holds the pedal in the fully-down position until "B" has closed the bleeder.

Repeat the above until clean, bubble-free brake fluid emerges from the tube into the jar, stopping to check the fluid level in the master cylinder every five cycles or so. Do not allow the brake pedal to spring back with the bleeder open, or air will be drawn into the system.

Then move to the right front, then the left rear, then the right rear.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well im screwd now

the tube to my caliper was leaking after i took it off, now it doesnt appear to be leaking, but i still dont have any pressure on the brake pedel....

even with the bleeder tightened, fluid still comes out.....

OK, then you've got some repairs to do before you're ready to bleed. New bleeder screws (try your local NAPA), new brake lines, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Go here or find a local supplier. Speed bleeders can also be found in the Help section of your local parts store. http://www.buybrakes.com/russell/speedbleeder.html
I have used mine for 5 years or so, and it one of the best investments I've made on the car. Takes little time to flush the system with new fluid. Attach a line to them so you don't spray fluid all over the place.

Cool! I'm going to look at retrofitting these next time I have my brakes apart.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You'll love them! The Russell bleeders come with little dust covers to keep the tips clean (if that matters ). I don't know about the quality of the ones in the Help area, so I'd stay with Russell. If I remember, I paid around 14 or 15 bucks for two. The Help ones are a few dollars cheaper. I don't have the part number needed, the package is buried someplace in my dads car shop (like him, I never throw anything away). I'll look next weekend (Tuesday-Wednesday for me) if intrested. The work on the wheel cylinders for 10" drums. Should be same for 11", might be to big for 9" drums.

first a question, how do those speed bleeders work? and second, thanks guys, after spending $2 on a new bleeder and $2 on some new copper washers that were &#@% up, it is not leaking now! so now is the time to find someone to help bleed.
thanks again

actually, one more thing, do i need to bleed them all if i only removed the line on just the left front caliper??

You really do need to bleed the entire system.

The speed bleeders contain a spring-loaded check ball that allows fluid (and air) to flow out, but seats to stop air being drawn back in. The ordinary factory bleeders contain no such check valve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

it will be fine if i dont bleed the entire thing though....?
I'll have to do it anyways though.