I picked up a budget priced A/F gauge today and ordered a 14mm O2 weld bung to install in my '84 D100.
The 3 wire is the way to go, correct?
What is a dependable brand and what auto application do I ask for to get what I need?
Does the bung weld in at a 90*, pointed towards exh flow or pointed away from exh flow?
Any tips? Am I overlooking anything?

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Slant Cecil

I used Bosch one-wire O2 sensors with "generic" wire ends (IE no brand specific connector on the end of the wire, just a generic insulated female spade terminal)

I went the one-wire route for one simple reason: less wiring to go wrong. My O2's don't take long to heat up. (Maybe 30-45 seconds)

My O2 bungs are welded perpendicular to the pipe, just past the header collector on the exhaust pipe itself. O2 sensors straight in (90* to direction of flow).

The only tip I really have to offer is to purchase a few feet of 1/4" silicon tubing, slice it lengthwise, and use it to protect the first foot or so of wiring exposed to the heat of the exhaust system.

-S/6

Ram has it right. I wouldn't bother with a heated (3 or 4 wire) for the extra cost. Weld the bung so it's perpendicular to flow. You'll like it for tuning. I was skeptical at first, but it does save some tuning time, even with a carb.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The only reason to consider a heated O2S is if your sensor port is far enough downstream that the sensor cools down at idle/low speeds and stops giving accurate readings.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, thanks guys. One wire it is. I still have the stock exh manifold, an installation a few inches from the flange should still be a hot spot.

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Slant Cecil

That should still be a very hot spot.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have single wire O2 sensors in a couple of applications including past the collector of Loooong tube headers. In order to not screw up the ceramic coating I have it in the reducer on the drivers bank. It warms up in less than a block even in the winter. I found it lasted longer there. When the sensor was too close to the head we routinely melted it while towing up long mountain grades. ( I keep a spare in the glove box.)

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Just as an fyi for those who care - generic sensors tend to be more expensive then application specific. Don't ask me why....

ie, went to napa few days ago. 4 wire o2 bosch sensor generic = $95, 1995 corvette 4 wire sensor (same thing w/gm connector at end) = $50, so something you folks may want to watch out for if your looking for heated sensors.

i have used the one-wire bosch o2 sensors and work fine. i think i paid 10 bucks each for them. i have also run one wire sensors from early feedback-carb honda civics (@83-85) and worked great too, plus those were free!

-james

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My Dart has a Bosch four wire O2 sensor from Napa for a Chrysler Lebaron. It cost $60. That extra $35 is known as the "Corvette" tax. I have a '95 Corvette in addition to my Darts, and the Corvette tax runs through everything sold for that car. I used the four wire because I had a '95 Lebaron and knew the number for the part. I probably would still chose to go the four wire route just out of obsessive compulsive paranoia.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

Dart, the 4 wire corvette sensor was $50. The generic 4 wire (no connecter, just plain uncrimped wire ends) was $95. Buy the cheaper corvette or in your case lebaron sensor, chop off the connecter, and voila you have a generic sensor thats cheaper.

I have to use a heated sensor not out of paranoia but necessesity because my sensor is about even with the transmission housing, and running clifford shorty headers.

What is the 02 sensor for? Could this be why my 85, D100 Dodge pickup runs like crap when she warms up?
/six, single barrel, automatic.
John Gov.