Since installing the "new" used motor I've broken two distributor gears. When we replaced the motor we used the torque convertor from a 1972 trans vs the one in the 66 originally. Could this be causing the problem. The motor seems to "kick back" and sounds like the starter is engaged prior to shearing the gear.

You sure you are talking about a distributor gear?
Or is it the gear on the starter?
And a converter from -72 will not fit a 66 tranny, so someone has been there before you...

Did your distributor have the shim washer between the gear and the distributor body? I broke one once way back and the distributor had a large gap there and no washer. I put it back together with a new gear and a washer and it never failed again.

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.

Well, we still have the convertor form the 66 so we can reinstall it. There was a shim on the first shaft but no shim on the second installatio, Guess I better try to find one before I continue

What year is the replacement engine?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Repeatedly broken distributor gears usually are caused by a binding distributor, improper dist gear installation or a faulty camshaft distributor/oil pump drive gear worm, though often if the latter is the cause you'll also lose oil pump drive gears. Most of the replacement distributor drive gears (actually a pinion, not a gear) are not drilled in the correct place for installation; you have to follow the procedure in the FSM to align the pinion correctly and drill it all the way through. Attempting to use the factory hole often results in broken pinions.

If your distributor's shaft is bent or it's binding for some other reason, this will also place extreme stress on the pinion and can cause breakage.
(Yes, the shim washer has to be present.)

If you've very carefully checked ALL the above factors, it's possible you're having trouble finding good quality replacement pinions in your area. In that case, there's a very good iron one available from NAPA; Echlin number DG-404.

But, you mention starters and torque converters, which makes me wonder (like Rust Collector) whether you're not actually breaking starter drive pinions. The 1972 torque converter WILL NOT properly fit with a '66 transmission (input shaft splines wrong) or a '66 engine (crankshaft counterbore too small).

The engine is a 72, the transmission is a 66. I have the 72 convertor that we will replace this weekend. The first "pinion" from Napa was plastic and only had a hole on one side. I will inquire about the iron one. I would feel better than using plastic. The distributor seems to move freely without binding. Supposedly engine ran fine prior to pulling for replacement with a V-8. But we know this is always a crapshoot when buying form someone else.
We will see what happens. Thanks

Yeah, the "only one hole" in the new dist pinion is typical, and believe it or not, you're NOT supposed to use that hole (even if you drill another one straight across from it). In fact, that hole goes 90° to the hole in the shaft, then you position the pinion tightly up against the shim washer, then you crossdrill both sides of the new plastic pinion using the hole in the shaft as a guide (and being careful not to enlarge it. Then you install a new rollpin through your new holes in the new pinion. The one hole in the pinion as bought is very high up on the pinion shank, so if you use that hole, the pinion will sideload and, yes, probably break.

There's nothing wrong with the nylon pinion. They work well for hundreds of thousands of miles. The iron pinions are less hassle to install, though, 'cause you don't have to drill them (use the existing holes). Be sure to check the end play, though; if something screws that up you'll have problems.

'68-up engine with '67-down trans works fine as long as:

1) You use the '67-down converter (only kind that'll properly fit the '67-down trans), and

2) You use a 1/8" annular adaptor ring between the nose of the early torque converter and the counterbore of the late crankshaft. Otherwise you'll lunch trans front seals in a hurry and usually have balance problems, too. These rings are available from Torqueflite Patty.

When you pull the '72 converter out, inspect the trans input shaft carefully; it's probable the splines have been chewed up by the incorrect converter.

SlantSixDan,
Changed the convertor, no problems on the splines but I could easily see why it would not fit. Statrted right up, no problems with the distributor gear. Bit confusing why they put a hole in a gear that is not to be used.
Thanks again. Invaluable advice.