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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2005 12:56 pm 
I have a '74 Dodge manual; A-bodies seem to be L-V. R-W are B-bodies and I think C-Y are C-bodies, so it's probably P-D on whatever schematics you have. There should be a key in the manual. It is easy to tell for sure by looking what matches your instrument cluster.

My schematics show the fuse for the dash between the dimmer in the headlight switch and before the cluster- try your test light there 1st.

If that gets nothing, you can
drop your headlight switch with the connector still attached and use the test light on the inputs and outputs there - the manual is pretty good showing which is which, and there are letters usually cast into the plastic of the switch to identify which pin is which.

Note that the connector could be damaged too, so look at it carefully. I would disconnect the battery before removing the switch - you push a button on the bottom and pull the shaft out, then unscrew the bezel.

If your fuse has power OK, then it is likely that the pin on the round connector on the back of the PC board on the cluster is not making good contact - check there too, and then check the ground for the cluster. If the pin is the problem, you can repair it with solder or bypass it with a jumper.

Good Luck,K


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 Post subject: fuse box
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2005 2:13 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 12:38 am
Posts: 156
Location: Tucson, Az.
Car Model:
well, i did a tune up and then pulled out all the fuses and did the "ole" "twist the little life out of them" test on all of them. amazing as it seemed to me four of them had loose ends. being they were all 20 amp. they must have been on their "last legs"cause they all seemed to work. so i replaced them. it's way too light outside to tell if i did any good or any harm till tonight (instrument panel). i will let you know what i find out. oh!, i forgot to tell you that i took out the a/c fuse out of the "fuse box" and the a/c didn't work (good news!), so they didn't by pass the box after all. i want to see where i'm at before i take the instrument panel out again. thanks!


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 Post subject: fuses
PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2005 8:49 am 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 12:38 am
Posts: 156
Location: Tucson, Az.
Car Model:
well, everything is still the same. removing the old fuses probably saved me a little work in the future, but thats about all. hopefully, soon i will have time to get to the source of my problem (probably the light switch). thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2005 12:42 pm 
Offline
EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:56 am
Posts: 496
Location: Los Angeles
Car Model:
try here [/url]http://www.rockymountaindashes.com/[url]

new set of gauges from summit

and a painless wiring harness for $200 part number 10308

i was fed up with the electrical in my valiant, turn signals don't work, circuit board and gauges messed up

all new wirring and gauges will make me feel better

but if your going for the original look, it sounds like you're on the edge of finding out the problem

good luck!!!

_________________
70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr
Image


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 Post subject: very strange...
PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2005 12:31 am 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 12:38 am
Posts: 156
Location: Tucson, Az.
Car Model:
all i did was change out some old fuses that were good until i twisted the ends loose (old age). and now my turn signals flash twice as fast as they used to. anybody have a clue whats going on? thanks.


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