I was in my 360 Dart today, and nailed it coming out of a parking lot, and the back end started hoping around insanely. Anybody know the best fix for this? The entire rear of the car bounced around both left and right, and up and down. It is a 3.23 8 3/4" posi unit, with an over drive fourspeed. This gives first gear about a 10:1 ratio. Will shocks alone help this, or do I need to put some kind of stiffener on the front of the leafs.?The thing is, it has pretty decent road maners other that this. It rides, corners, and tracks well, so I don;t want to mess with this too much. It needs to be streetable still. Is there some sort of "trick" linkage that can be applied to the Mopar spring set up. The springs are heavy duty, with 6 leafs. Thanks.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

do a search on here for "pinion snubber"
a pinion snubber should be a big help and wont hurt your "street manners"

Of course I have seen the pinion snubbers mentioned in the press, and catalogues, but never understood how they work. How do they work? How effective are they?

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

A pinion snubber's job is to act as a "bump stop" to limit the travel of the nose of the 3rd member. When properly set up and adjusted, it kills the oscillation of the 3rd member on the springs, thereby reducing or eliminating axle hop. The factory snubber has just one setting, and it really doesn't come into play unless the back of the car is heavily enough loaded that the floor comes down and meets the snubber. The aftermarket units are adjustable so you can bring the bump stop closer to the floor pan.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I would check your springs to see if they are sagging, worn out. Replace the bushings with poly. Try better shocks. Front spring clamps. etc...

Or, you can always try the poormans Caltracks: http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Is it possible to put a pinion snubber on a pickup? My D-150 hops on pavement, sand, gravel, you name it.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Don't see why not...!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Will I have to weld a "pad" on the bottom of the bed, sorta like what the cars have.

I was asking because it is loong way from my rear end snout to the bed of the truck.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

There's too much suspension travel on a truck. By the time a snubber worked under normal conditions, you'd lose all your payload capacity (i.e. with a load, the snubber would be pushing the front of the diff down too much)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

The same thing will happen on a street driven car. I don't see how pinion snubbers can be driven on the street. They may be great for the track, but not on the street.

My car has the stock pinion snubber on it. Never gave me a bit of trouble.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

The stock pinion snubber is designed to keep the rear axle pinion from crashing into the floor boards on large bumps or in overloaded situations. The racing pinion snubber is designed to be adjustable so you can move the snubber to with an 1" of the floor boards. When you do this, you have 1" of suspension travel. Not very practical for a street driven car.

A great fix for wheel-hop in a Mopar is to use the asymmetric leaf springs supplied by MP. They're what the 440- and Hemi- powered B-bodies used in the 60s- the right rear spring has fewer full-length leaves, plus two "half-leaves" that extend forward of the axle only. The left rear spring stack has no half leaves, and a different set of full-leaves. The half-leaves in the right hand spring make the front half of that spring almost a solid bar, which prevents axle wind-up. the different spring rate left- and right- also fights the engine's tendency to lift the right rear wheel. A pinion snubber is used to remove the remaining wheel hop and plant the rear axle hard on the pavement for drag applications, but a pinion snubber isn't a lot of good on s street car- when you get it set close enough to fight axle wind-up, it takes away too much of your rear end spring travel for anthiing except smooth roads.

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What about a traction bar? They eliminate twisting of the rear axle and they don't interfere with suspension travel.

Conventional "slapper" traction bars only screw up the way Mopar springs are supposed to work. There's a new type of device similar to a traction bar, but it actually creates almost a 4-link action and works WITH the springs... can't remember the vendor that makes it right off. There was a write up in a recent 'Muscle Car Enthusiast' magazine, and I'd first heard about it 4-5 years ago. It has a boxed bracket that mounts around the front spring hanger, and then a plate that mounts under the axle U-bolts. An adjustable linkage attaches the plate to the boxed bracket, and allows you to adjust the amount of pre-load on the link, which counteracts the tendency of the nose of the differential to rotate upward on a hard launch.

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