You really do need to bleed the entire system.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

of course

only prob the dont have a 73' scamp listed for the speed bleeders!

Sure, they do!
Disc Front: 639590
Drum Front: 639530
Rear: 639530

per http://www.russellperformance.com/autom ... mestic.htm

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I use the Russel bleed screws with t he check valve, but still ended up having to draft my wife to help me bleed the brakes anyway.

I'd like to note that the teflon coating on the threads made they really stiff to turn at first; I suggest you work them in and out a few times before you actually bleed the brakes, or you may end up not having them closed all the way when you're done.

No, not really. This is how I bleed brakes.

On a single reservoir system you will need to bleed the whole system starting at the wheel cylinder farthest from the master cylinder. Which would be the left rear cylinder.

On a dual reservoir system you only need to bleed the part of the system that lost the fluid. Once again starting from the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder. In this case it would be the left rear and the left front.

When changing the master cylinder, there is no need to bench bleed it before installing it into the car. Remove the old cylinder and bolt in the new one. Tighten the hardlines so they are loose. Have your buddy pump the brake pedal. When air bubbles stop appearing at the fitings, tighten them rest of the way. There is no need to bleed the whole system.

Now before Dan, et al, jump down my throat, I have been doing this for 30+ years. And, I have never had any problems with air bubbles in the system when I am done.

Since this is such an important issue, I will jump on you, instead of Dan, but I will do it with soft shoes.

Bench bleeding of the master cyl is important. If you do not do it, it is a crap shoot, of getting all the air out of the cyl.

As for bleeding one half of a dual system, it would be either both rear brakes or both front brakes, not one front and one rear.

Farthest cyl is on the right side.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Kesteb-

You're technically right that on a dual-master system you can usually get away with just bleeding the front or rear circuit (whichever one you've been working on), and get most of the air out of the system withoutt having to bleed the other half of the system, but there is a good reason for bleeding the whole system that have nothing to do with air bubbles: Brake fluid absorbs water and suspends dirt, rubber particles, rust particles and assorted other crud. By rights, the brake fluid ought to be flushed completely every 2 or 3 years. Scarcely anyone does this, but brake hydraulics last longer and work better with clean/dry fluid than with dirty/wet fluid. That being the case, as long as you've got the brake fluid and bleeder wrench and jar off the shelf, it seems silly to do the job only halfway.

Your "crack the fittings and pump the brakes til air stops coming out, then retighten the fittings" method does the same thing as bench bleeding, just with more potential for mess and paint damage. If you make ample use of shop rags, you can do it this way. But, those kits that have plastic fittings and hoses to run from the fittings back into the reservoir cost all of about $5 and make the job much less messy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, you have such a way with words. Much better then me.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

True Dan, but shop rags are less the $5 per bundle, your right leg is stonger then your right arm and chrysler was so considerate to provide a nice lever and fulcrum within the car so you can use your right leg to bleed the master cylinder.

Water and rust contamination is only a problem if you use DOT 3 fluid.

Sure, but then there's the hassle of dealing with them once they're soaked in brake fluid. The easiest mess to clean up is the one that doesn't get made...

No debate there. I "bench bleed" my master cylinders on the car, using the aforementioned $5 fittings-and-tubes bench bleeding kit.
FALSE.

DOT-3, DOT-4 and DOT-5.1 are all hygroscopic (absorb water).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Adding on to what Dan said:
Water and rust are also a problem with silicone brake fluid. Even though it doesn't absorb water, if it somehow gets in the system you'll still get rust. The only way to be sure the water is out is to bleed it out.