i'm going to test my coil, since i've thinking it could be dead, i've been testing the breaker points with a voltmeter , adjusting the ignition timing, disassembled the carb and replaced gaskets & accel pump, and so on...., but ....the car doesn't want to start ..... Yesterday, i take off the coil plug to see if there was some spark or not, i crank the car twice but didn't see anything, no spark on the wire plug.....

Is it enough to remove the wire that goes to the dist cap and leave it off or i need to put it near a ground to see the high tension spark ????

What is the BEST method to test the coil without getting shocked ??

Do i need to put it close to the ground ??? or the spark should simply jump to any ground itself , regardless it's near a ground or not ??

Is it normal to read 4.7V on the coil (i have a ballast between) ?


My beast is a Dodge Coronado 79, and i'm wiriting this from Argentina ..

Yes you need to get the wire close to ground to see spark, or hear the spark.

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Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

Nope, that is a little low. I bet your battery is weak from trying to start. My buddies Ramcharger recently had the exact problem. Even a jump start wouldn't do it, but his battery was pretty old.
Have a friend hold the wire.

Honestly, hold it close to the engine block, and you won't get shocked, it will jump to the block.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Thanks for the replies !

In fact, i'm running a WILLARD 670A.... could be possible, 'cause i carried out it to a batt-shop to be re-charged... Since it was sitting about two weeks ( i could'nt start the car), it could be down.......

I'll try to read the voltage at the posts of the <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=battery&v=56">battery</a> to see how much it is charged and re-charge it if necessary, then retry.

Tonight, i'll try to see if i get spark, pointing the rubber end of the coil wire to the engine block and see what happens , to discard a coil/dist/timing problem.....


MANY THANX!!!
SEE YA

Hi boyz!!!

Anyone could give me the ignition SPECS for a SL6:

- FACTORY SPARK PLUGS LASH
- VALVE LASH ( INTAKE & EXHAUST )
- BREAKER POINTS LASH
- FACTORY IGNITION TIMING

MANY THANX!!!!!!!

plugs .035 inch
.010 inch intake .020 exhaust
Don't know breaker points, if it's electronic I think it's .008" with a nonmagnetic gauge.
Ignition timing is based on year and model. Check for an emissions tag under the hood and it should state timing specification. (this is assuming you have the factory distributor still in place.)

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Does anything happen if you use your regular old gauge set and not an nonmagnetic feeler gauge?????????????

Just curious

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

yes, it makes it nearly impossible to get an accurate reading because there is a magnet in the pickup coil that attracts the gauge, which in turn attracts the reluctor. You can't feel the drag because everything is being pulled together anyway.

My Hayes instant destructo manual sez to use a brass feeler gauge. Don't know how hard those are to come by. Always borrowed my neighbors.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2