I know they weren't all that rare, but I find no info on the "Cool Aire" underdash AC in my '64 Dart GT ragtop on the net. Just a few mentions of them being in various vehicles as options. The car's Previous owner had kluged up an underdash switch to turn the compressor on, and the blower ran on high or it was off. With the blower on, turning the compressor on gave cold air a plenty. However, as you can imagine it was a P.I.T.A. to operate, and was UGLY, too. The P.O. gave me an extra compressor and knee knocker unit, and the spare had an apparently good switch assembly (the one in the car had broken wire resistors). What I need to know is what color wires go to which terminals on the switch assembly? I don't want to screw the AC unit or the switch up!!!

The factory Service manual has info on the care and feeding of the compressor (charging, etc.) but nothing on the wiring. Since they were add-on units, I'm thinking the info was in a dealer publication. IMHO it should have been in the FSM, too, but NNOOOOooooooo!!!

Help!

Please!

References, pointers, hints???

Thanks!

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

"Cool Aire" is a genuine Mopar underdash A/C unit. I've got one in my '62. Sounds like the PO did the mickeymouse repair 'cause the four-button switch failed. Four buttons are off-low-med-high for the fan speed, and that switch also feeds power to the compressor through the slide-adjustable thermostat switch just above the 4-button switch. As far as I know, there is no wiring diagram for the evaporator ("knee knocker") unit. I'll dig around and see what I can find. You really won't screw anything up as long as you take your time. If you find a light blue wire, that's your clutch feed. If you want to extend the life of the 4-button switch, put the clutch on a relay instead of dragging the high current through the switch!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, I would be more concerned, with the current draw of the blower motor, rather then the clutch. The clutch should not draw more then about 4 amps, but will have an inductive kick back when it turns off. The blower will pull in the neighborhood of 15 amps on high speed. Most modern after market A/C units for van rear A/C, use muliple relays for the blower.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Much thanks to Charlie S and SlantSixDan!!! Since you are both board sponsors and moderators, I'd guess you are among the real oldtimers here. As I'm sure you both guessed, I was looking for an easier softer way to figure the Knee Knocker out without damaging it or the switch. Checking the switch with my Digittal Multimeter, it seems ok. It was pretty sticky and "crunchy", but I flooded it with Carb Cleaner, then WD-40, and it's pretty smooth now. I'd like to know what is a good permanent lube for it, and finding a new switch would be way cool, too.

I hadn't thought of adding relays to the control circuits. Guess they'd have to go outside the case. That would cut the load on the old switch contacts. How about "solid statre relays" (switching transistors) any ideas???

Of course an OEM switch should last as long as the one I have that seems to work now - and in another forty years I WON'T CARE if it works or not, I'll be 98 yrs old and droolin' into my oatmeal

Next time I go to my storage unit, I'll bring the other unit home and trace the wiring on it. The switch has four lugs; the two common ones must be power, the one next to it must be the variable voltage to the blower, and the one atop the switch that is connected to the power lug when any of the buttons are pressed would be the compressor clutch. I'll need to figure the thermostat hookup, but like the man sait, "It aint rocket science!"

Thanks again, guys; and I'm still open to any further suggestions, advice, wellwishing, etc, etc.

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

What is the cheapest way to put A/C in my '64 Dart?
I don't care if it is original or ugly.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."